Re: Had this problem before, 49 Custom 8 won't go into gear
Posted by Packard0 On 2014/11/24 12:50:32
the wheel bearing nut and wheel bearing came out and off easy and is in good condition. The wheel hub seems to be stuck on the upper part. I've pried it all around and it wants to come off except for the top part.
I have this repair manual but can't find anything about how to adjust the wheel bearing.
I found this online--does it sound right?
Remove the brake drum and the outer bearings. To remove the inner bearings you'll have to remove the inner seal first, so have new seals ready. You can remove the grease seal by gently using a metal drift and carefully driving it and the bearing out together from the opposite side. Clean the old grease from the hub and clean the bearings gently in kersone or mineral spirits; gasoline works but wasn't recommended. Inspect the rollers for surface imperfections like chips, worn flats, etc. Also inspect the bearing races in the same manner and replace if necessary. Then repack either the new bearings or old bearings with wheel bearing grease and take care to fill the cavities between the rollers. There are handy little tools available for this but most folks just put a wad of grease in the palm of their hand and "slap" the bearing repeatedly into the grease, forcing it thru the roller cavities. Smear a little more across the outside of the bearing, and a bit of extra into the cavity in the hub. Install the new inner bearing and then a new seal to retain it. The "opening" of the seal should face grease, i.e. should face the interior of the hub. Install the drum with inner bearing and seal on the spindle and then install the front bearing and attaching hardware. Tighten the retaining nut firmly with a wrench to make sure the bearings and races are seated. Then back it off and tighten again with just your fingers until it's snug, back off 1 hex to the nearest cotter pin slot, and check the feel. Old timers did it entirely by feel and liked to just barely feel an almost imperceptible degree of looseness (enough you could barely feel but not see) and the correct adjustment. Packard in later years had a shop manual procedure using a torque wrench. In that method they recommended tightening to 20 ft-lbs to seat the bearings, then backing off to loose and tightening again to 4 ft lbs (48 inch lbs), then backing off to the nearest cotter pin slot. Practice and try both methods - see if they give the same fit.
Attach file:
(19.72 KB)
I have this repair manual but can't find anything about how to adjust the wheel bearing.
I found this online--does it sound right?
Remove the brake drum and the outer bearings. To remove the inner bearings you'll have to remove the inner seal first, so have new seals ready. You can remove the grease seal by gently using a metal drift and carefully driving it and the bearing out together from the opposite side. Clean the old grease from the hub and clean the bearings gently in kersone or mineral spirits; gasoline works but wasn't recommended. Inspect the rollers for surface imperfections like chips, worn flats, etc. Also inspect the bearing races in the same manner and replace if necessary. Then repack either the new bearings or old bearings with wheel bearing grease and take care to fill the cavities between the rollers. There are handy little tools available for this but most folks just put a wad of grease in the palm of their hand and "slap" the bearing repeatedly into the grease, forcing it thru the roller cavities. Smear a little more across the outside of the bearing, and a bit of extra into the cavity in the hub. Install the new inner bearing and then a new seal to retain it. The "opening" of the seal should face grease, i.e. should face the interior of the hub. Install the drum with inner bearing and seal on the spindle and then install the front bearing and attaching hardware. Tighten the retaining nut firmly with a wrench to make sure the bearings and races are seated. Then back it off and tighten again with just your fingers until it's snug, back off 1 hex to the nearest cotter pin slot, and check the feel. Old timers did it entirely by feel and liked to just barely feel an almost imperceptible degree of looseness (enough you could barely feel but not see) and the correct adjustment. Packard in later years had a shop manual procedure using a torque wrench. In that method they recommended tightening to 20 ft-lbs to seat the bearings, then backing off to loose and tightening again to 4 ft lbs (48 inch lbs), then backing off to the nearest cotter pin slot. Practice and try both methods - see if they give the same fit.
Attach file:
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