Re: Valve Timing correction for '48 356 Engine

Posted by Mike Dowd On 2015/9/21 12:32:18

The Motors Auto Repair Manual says the valve timing check should be done with the hydraulic lifter bled down and enough shim stock between the lifter and the valve to give zero clearance. I can see that this would be the way to get a proper check of the valve timing. No mention of this procedure is found in my Packard Manual.

To fix the oil leaks I removed the pan and replaced the gasket. (BTW...I undid the front mount and stabilizer bolts and raised the engine slightly by placing pieces of 2 X 4 between the mount feet an the frame.) This made removal of the pan much easier.

With a knife and a wire brush I removed all the original gasket and the RTV I'd used (very slightly) to affix the gasket on the pan. I noted that several of the bolt holes were 'coned' slightly so I flattened the pan gasket flange surface with a hammer and backup block.

With the new gasket and proper bolt torque the new gasket was as dry as it could be. I ran the engine to get it up to temp and then ran it for at an additional 30 minutes at various rpms from 500 to 2500. I hate oil leaks so I'm a pleased as I can possibly be.

Also...the original check run was performed with 50-50 antifreeze and water. The water temp reached 185 from time to time during the run. This latest check was performed with mostly distilled water and some Napa cooling system additive. The the temperature peaked at 165 and then settled to 160 deg (the thermostat rating) and stayed there for the entire test. Ambient temp for the second run was slightly cooler than the first but I was still impressed that the water temp was so much cooler.