Re: Rear wing window removal
Posted by HH56 On 2016/1/20 12:24:03
The majority of the screws were 6-32. Can't remember for sure but think for clearance there might have been a couple of places where 4-40s worked better and am almost positive I used 8-32s down low on the side where a channel rivet is shared with another piece. I used regular nylon lock nuts when I had plenty of space. A few spots were tight with little clearance for the nut -- either because of how it had to go in or where it landed when installed -- so used Keps nuts on those. Still a lock nut but has a lower profile because of the different lockwasher.
Screws were used on the sides and a couple of places on the top but 1/8 flat head steel pop rivets were used on the majority of places at the top where the channel attaches to the tab extending from the vent frame. When trying to tip the frame back into position I found there is just not enough clearance for a nut between the channel and door frame at most of those locations.
It may not have been necessary but I also used reinforcement washers with the rivet. The important part is the rivet body cannot extend much past the tab or washer. The head was inside the channel to be buried in the felt. My install tool fortunately had an extended nose piece which was almost long enough to insert into the channel and pull the rivet. I extended that a bit more by using a short length of 1/4 rod with a hole drilled thru the center. That fit over the draw stem between the tool and rivet to provide the rest of length needed to reach the head. Once the rivet was installed I used a pin punch to knock the remainder of the draw stem back out of the rivet. Used the cut off wheel to shorten the body where necessary and then used a couple of punches -- one inside the channel against the head as an anvil and one outside to flatten the remaining rivet body against the washer.
Photos are not the best but might give an idea of the end result.
Attach file:
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Screws were used on the sides and a couple of places on the top but 1/8 flat head steel pop rivets were used on the majority of places at the top where the channel attaches to the tab extending from the vent frame. When trying to tip the frame back into position I found there is just not enough clearance for a nut between the channel and door frame at most of those locations.
It may not have been necessary but I also used reinforcement washers with the rivet. The important part is the rivet body cannot extend much past the tab or washer. The head was inside the channel to be buried in the felt. My install tool fortunately had an extended nose piece which was almost long enough to insert into the channel and pull the rivet. I extended that a bit more by using a short length of 1/4 rod with a hole drilled thru the center. That fit over the draw stem between the tool and rivet to provide the rest of length needed to reach the head. Once the rivet was installed I used a pin punch to knock the remainder of the draw stem back out of the rivet. Used the cut off wheel to shorten the body where necessary and then used a couple of punches -- one inside the channel against the head as an anvil and one outside to flatten the remaining rivet body against the washer.
Photos are not the best but might give an idea of the end result.
Attach file:
(107.12 KB)
(87.48 KB)
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