Re: New owner with lots of questions.
Posted by HH56 On 2016/1/24 16:03:55
On the overdrive, since yours is a 22nd series the first thing you need to do is verify if you have an R9 or have the mid 22nd series changeover to the R11 overdrive. They are completely different units both mechanically and electrically.
Unless someone has mismatched the parts as one poster recently found on his car, the R9 will have a squarish black relay box on the firewall about the size of the voltage regulator. It has 6 terminals.
The R11 will have a smaller rectangular box with a fuse on the side and 4 terminals. The two relay boxes are completely different and not compatible with a different OD.
In case that part has been mixed, under the car the R9 solenoid and lockout cable are on the passenger side and solenoid has 4 wires. The R11 has them on the drivers side and solenoid has 2 wires. Solenoids will not interchange but governors are the same on both although the drive pinions may be different.
I would suggest you go to the literature service, shop and training manuals section and download a service training book for the OD. The R9 is entitled Econo-Drive Training Book and the R11 is a generic version and will have Borg-Warner Overdrive in the title.
The speedo cable is nothing special and a universal cable can be used. It is the square end variety. The pinion and shaft is a one piece assy that slides in the adapter and cable slides into that. If the cable adapter has been removed from the trans there is a slim chance the pinion and shaft has fallen out. Another possibility if the cable is missing the sort of retainer piece at the speedo end that keeps it from falling down the housing, the cable could have migrated away from the speedo end enough to loose connection.
On the carb switch, the activation is done by a small round ball which rests in a flat space on the shaft --sort of wedged between the throttle shaft and the switch mechanism. When engine is off that ball is in position so stepping on the accelerator turns the shaft. The flat spot rotates and ball is squeezed toward the switch pushing a plunger and activating. As soon as the engine starts, when you let up on the accelerator it frees the ball and vacuum pulls it up into a holding area where it can no longer reach anything. As long as the engine is running the ball is held and switch can no longer be activated. Things stay that way until the engine quits and no vacuum lets the ball drop down in the start position again.
EDIT: If you find a broken or kinked speedo cable then lack of lube and possibly frozen input bushing at the speedo is a known problem. There is a small felt filled oil hole for the bushing and it would be a good idea to apply a drop or two of light oil even if all seems OK. Like most of the speedos, they don't make it easy but a small sewing machine type applicator usually works. You can barely see the hole at the end of the arrow in the square bumpout under the screw. A drop or two around the bushing at the very end where the bronze colored cable socket extends and rotates in the diecast threaded portion is also a good idea.
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Unless someone has mismatched the parts as one poster recently found on his car, the R9 will have a squarish black relay box on the firewall about the size of the voltage regulator. It has 6 terminals.
The R11 will have a smaller rectangular box with a fuse on the side and 4 terminals. The two relay boxes are completely different and not compatible with a different OD.
In case that part has been mixed, under the car the R9 solenoid and lockout cable are on the passenger side and solenoid has 4 wires. The R11 has them on the drivers side and solenoid has 2 wires. Solenoids will not interchange but governors are the same on both although the drive pinions may be different.
I would suggest you go to the literature service, shop and training manuals section and download a service training book for the OD. The R9 is entitled Econo-Drive Training Book and the R11 is a generic version and will have Borg-Warner Overdrive in the title.
The speedo cable is nothing special and a universal cable can be used. It is the square end variety. The pinion and shaft is a one piece assy that slides in the adapter and cable slides into that. If the cable adapter has been removed from the trans there is a slim chance the pinion and shaft has fallen out. Another possibility if the cable is missing the sort of retainer piece at the speedo end that keeps it from falling down the housing, the cable could have migrated away from the speedo end enough to loose connection.
On the carb switch, the activation is done by a small round ball which rests in a flat space on the shaft --sort of wedged between the throttle shaft and the switch mechanism. When engine is off that ball is in position so stepping on the accelerator turns the shaft. The flat spot rotates and ball is squeezed toward the switch pushing a plunger and activating. As soon as the engine starts, when you let up on the accelerator it frees the ball and vacuum pulls it up into a holding area where it can no longer reach anything. As long as the engine is running the ball is held and switch can no longer be activated. Things stay that way until the engine quits and no vacuum lets the ball drop down in the start position again.
EDIT: If you find a broken or kinked speedo cable then lack of lube and possibly frozen input bushing at the speedo is a known problem. There is a small felt filled oil hole for the bushing and it would be a good idea to apply a drop or two of light oil even if all seems OK. Like most of the speedos, they don't make it easy but a small sewing machine type applicator usually works. You can barely see the hole at the end of the arrow in the square bumpout under the screw. A drop or two around the bushing at the very end where the bronze colored cable socket extends and rotates in the diecast threaded portion is also a good idea.
Attach file:
(22.87 KB) (39.30 KB)
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