Re: '54 Convertible Trunk Light Switch
Posted by HH56 On 2017/2/13 12:09:05
It is unknown -at least by me- if they started the transition from mercury to the rolling ball with 23rd or until a later series.. I suspect the 23 is still mercury if it looks like the one above. As O_D said, 23 series and earlier were powered from the tail light circuit so only work when lights are on. Later ones were powered all the time but if it was installed by a dealer the light could well have been powered differently than Packard suggested. All generally turn on with lid about half way up and off well before the lid is closed. Don't think there is any specific or precise point. The later 24-56 series can be adjusted slightly by bending the mounting bracket to change the tilt of the light assy.
Here are a few photos of the 21st series Super and Custom light mounted on the lid and also one with it disassembled. The cap is pressed onto the body of the socket but using a gentle grip so as not to bend or crush the cap and some twisting with channel lock pliers it came off without difficulty. I don't know if the 24th and later assemblies without the domed hood cover piece come off as easily.
If you cannot shake the mercury to dislodge the oxide coating which frequently forms on contacts after prolonged exposure to mercury and make the switch work properly, new switches can be adapted. Here is an alarm tilt switch I have been looking at which should work. To adapt, it would involve removing the old mercury type and add a couple of new socket pieces to connect one wire of the new switch directly to the bulb socket contact and the other to the power lead. Switch could be hidden above the assy and is a modern ball type rated for 3 amps. New socket contact and insulating pieces are available from RI Wiring and others or just buy a universal aftermarket socket and take the guts out of that.
There are other real mercury switches still available in electronic stores but those generally are in bare glass capsules with exposed bare wires. They would not fit inside the socket as the original did and would have to be mounted in some way, insulated and then protected from external damage. Others are covered or protected better but an issue is the modern mercury types are generally used with solid state sensing circuits and most are only rated for less than 1/2 amp.
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Here are a few photos of the 21st series Super and Custom light mounted on the lid and also one with it disassembled. The cap is pressed onto the body of the socket but using a gentle grip so as not to bend or crush the cap and some twisting with channel lock pliers it came off without difficulty. I don't know if the 24th and later assemblies without the domed hood cover piece come off as easily.
If you cannot shake the mercury to dislodge the oxide coating which frequently forms on contacts after prolonged exposure to mercury and make the switch work properly, new switches can be adapted. Here is an alarm tilt switch I have been looking at which should work. To adapt, it would involve removing the old mercury type and add a couple of new socket pieces to connect one wire of the new switch directly to the bulb socket contact and the other to the power lead. Switch could be hidden above the assy and is a modern ball type rated for 3 amps. New socket contact and insulating pieces are available from RI Wiring and others or just buy a universal aftermarket socket and take the guts out of that.
There are other real mercury switches still available in electronic stores but those generally are in bare glass capsules with exposed bare wires. They would not fit inside the socket as the original did and would have to be mounted in some way, insulated and then protected from external damage. Others are covered or protected better but an issue is the modern mercury types are generally used with solid state sensing circuits and most are only rated for less than 1/2 amp.
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