Re: 1948 door latch
Posted by HH56 On 2017/5/12 13:01:23
Quote:
No. If it is possible to remove the door panel with the door in the opening then once the door panel is off the door, hinge screws should be able to be accessed to loosen the hinge on the door side.
On the 47 it would be easier because those hinges are exposed but with the thicker 48 doors the hinges are more centered and bolts are accessed thru small openings.
What I was wondering is if the hinge screws were removed, would that allow the flat hinge strap to cock and slide in the front edge openings so the door edge could push out past the fender and then could the entire door slide forward approx 1/2 inch to let the latch be free of the striker. Door couldn't be totally removed without undoing the door check but I was thinking the way the door is constructed it might be able to move a tiny bit out and forward just to unmesh the wheel from the striker. Once door could open a tiny bit then reattach the screws. It would take a helper though and some protection for the paint
Of course if the door panel can't be removed or if the doors got the early weld treatment between the hinge strap and door edge to correct sagging doors then moving the door would not be possible. Drilling the pillar just seems like such an extreme measure that I would try other things first.
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I looked at the front door hinges. The heads are covered when the door is closed . . . are you suggesting drilling the door hinge screws from the fender side?
No. If it is possible to remove the door panel with the door in the opening then once the door panel is off the door, hinge screws should be able to be accessed to loosen the hinge on the door side.
On the 47 it would be easier because those hinges are exposed but with the thicker 48 doors the hinges are more centered and bolts are accessed thru small openings.
What I was wondering is if the hinge screws were removed, would that allow the flat hinge strap to cock and slide in the front edge openings so the door edge could push out past the fender and then could the entire door slide forward approx 1/2 inch to let the latch be free of the striker. Door couldn't be totally removed without undoing the door check but I was thinking the way the door is constructed it might be able to move a tiny bit out and forward just to unmesh the wheel from the striker. Once door could open a tiny bit then reattach the screws. It would take a helper though and some protection for the paint
Of course if the door panel can't be removed or if the doors got the early weld treatment between the hinge strap and door edge to correct sagging doors then moving the door would not be possible. Drilling the pillar just seems like such an extreme measure that I would try other things first.
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