Re: 1954 Clipper 327 Starter

Posted by DavidPackard On 2017/12/15 19:44:08

I recently changed the solenoid on my '54 Cavalier which was equipped with a large format Delco unit. I also tried to remove the hold-down screws, but I was unable to reach the in-board set. I ultimately removed the starter and solenoid as a unit. After that adventure I certainly agree about your comment about the limited excess to the upper starter bolt. At the time I did not own a ratchet box wrench, so I was left with an open-end advancing the bolt 1/12 of a turn per 'bite', flipping the wrench and doing it over and over and over again. All of that may seem like a waste of time, but I'm convinced that the oil and dirt I found between the starter and bell housing was likely to be part of my problem of low cranking speed. After cleaning that interface, changing the solenoid, and a bit of brake clean on the commutator the cranking speed is back where it belongs.

HH56's observation has merit. You can jump from the battery directly to the ignition switch pole of the solenoid. If the starter engages and cranks the engine the solenoid is not likely the problem. You don't need the ignition switch on . . . or even the key. Just make sure the transmission is not 'in-gear'. Chock the wheels and stand to the side of the car with your mini jumper cable. If the car lurches forward the solenoid is OK. If the engine cranks the solenoid is OK. If the solenoid 'clicks' but the engine does not crank you need to dig deeper. If the solenoid does not 'click', you'll also need to dig deeper, but odds are the solenoid is the culprit. I must say I have never encountered a solenoid that didn't 'click' . . . normally the electrical contacts are the area of concern.

The difference between the large frame solenoid and the smaller one is not just the physical size. The difference is whether the Bendix drive is 'self-energizing'. The small solenoid is nothing more than a relay . . . only an electrical switch. Once the starter begins to spin the Bendix self deploys. The larger solenoid is all of that electrical switch functionality plus the mechanical activation of the Bendix drive. If you have this type of starter the lever connecting the solenoid to the Bendix drive will be visible.

The electrical section of the '54 shop manual (available on this site) depicts the 'small solenoid' starter configuration, while the '55 manual (again available on this site) depicts the external linkage configuration and the self-energizing design. Even though the '54 is 6 volt, and the '55 is 12 volt the artwork is OK to use to identify which of the two starter designs you have. I'm still a 'newbie' to all of the Packard configurations, but I believe only the '54 and later Delco starters had the external levers to drive the Bendix into engagement . . . thus the large solenoid. I believe the AutoLite and Delco starters are interchangeable, so over the years your car could have been configured with a different flavor starter, so it is best to look and compare to the shop manual artwork. See the '55-'56 Shop Manual, Section VIII - Electrical, pages 3 and 4.

Your photograph depicts a Delco large solenoid starter. Put the cables back on and run a jumper (14 AWG is fine) from the battery to the small wire connection stud on the solenoid. Are you sure the car has been converted to negative ground, or was that a typo? In either case you want to touch the jumper wire to the battery terminal that IS NOT ground. Again transmission in neutral or a helper holding the clutch pedal to the floor . . . with the brakes on.

Other than the upper starter bolt the task of changing the starter is straight forward.

dp