Re: In-Car Rebuild
Posted by JeromeSolberg On 2020/10/4 1:17:30
I was able to get all the pistons out. Here is what I have learned so far:d
To get the pistons out from cylinders #1 and #2 (which took me a bit of time last night) I used a 1/2" diameter oak wooden dowel, cut down to 21" long, which turned out to be just barely long enough. It could have been longer but I have the car up on riser ramps, so I only have limited clearance below the car.
All the pistons actually "look" good, in that I don't find any significant scoring or other damage, and they aren't loaded up with carbon deposits They look like the original pistons. They should be easy to clean up if I was able to re-use them.
The main observations are this:
The top ring groove-to-ring clearance, measuring a few pistons, is larger than spec (< 0.006" in the service manual), it is on the order of 0.008" to 0.009" using feeler gauges.
Piston #8 has a small "burr" on the bottom of the top ring groove.
Most of the rod bearings look "good", but there are a few with some obvious imperfections. Probably makes sense to fit new rod bearing.
I have been working on trying to measure the pistons skirts, they are somewhere between 3.500 and 3.498 at their widest point, I have a friend with better measuring equipment who is going to help with this tomorrow.
So it looks like I will need new pistons, which is disappointing because it appears these are the original pistons. Are the pistons from Kanter of the same intricate design? Of course one of the other issues is what is the bore of the cylinders, which I am going to work on measuring with the assistance of my friend tomorrow.
The other thing I did was clean out the combustion chambers from the head, using mostly a brass brush on my drill. I am getting ready to use electrolysis on this as well.
Thanks for your interest.
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To get the pistons out from cylinders #1 and #2 (which took me a bit of time last night) I used a 1/2" diameter oak wooden dowel, cut down to 21" long, which turned out to be just barely long enough. It could have been longer but I have the car up on riser ramps, so I only have limited clearance below the car.
All the pistons actually "look" good, in that I don't find any significant scoring or other damage, and they aren't loaded up with carbon deposits They look like the original pistons. They should be easy to clean up if I was able to re-use them.
The main observations are this:
The top ring groove-to-ring clearance, measuring a few pistons, is larger than spec (< 0.006" in the service manual), it is on the order of 0.008" to 0.009" using feeler gauges.
Piston #8 has a small "burr" on the bottom of the top ring groove.
Most of the rod bearings look "good", but there are a few with some obvious imperfections. Probably makes sense to fit new rod bearing.
I have been working on trying to measure the pistons skirts, they are somewhere between 3.500 and 3.498 at their widest point, I have a friend with better measuring equipment who is going to help with this tomorrow.
So it looks like I will need new pistons, which is disappointing because it appears these are the original pistons. Are the pistons from Kanter of the same intricate design? Of course one of the other issues is what is the bore of the cylinders, which I am going to work on measuring with the assistance of my friend tomorrow.
The other thing I did was clean out the combustion chambers from the head, using mostly a brass brush on my drill. I am getting ready to use electrolysis on this as well.
Thanks for your interest.
Attach file:
(208.29 KB)
(188.86 KB)
(159.53 KB)
(203.56 KB)
(101.50 KB)
(117.69 KB)
(261.07 KB)
(115.89 KB)
(176.10 KB)
(176.10 KB)
(230.65 KB)
(221.13 KB)
(232.67 KB)
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