Re: 356ci Engine Stalls
Posted by HH56 On 2021/8/8 9:53:32
Most concerning is what appears to be fuel leaks all over the carburetor. It could be old age or something has happened internally and the carb is in need of a rebuild. You also mentioned what I am taking to be a recent addition of an electric fuel pump. If one was installed which is producing too much pressure that could certainly be causing the issue. The car does not have the optional fuel filter installed next to the carb so unless there is a filter hidden somewhere else in the line between the electric pump and before the carb any electric pump providing more than approximately 5 psi (without having an additional pressure regulator) could be forcing the float valve off its seat. Excess fuel could be flooding the carb and causing the stall. There are 6v pumps that provide 2.5-4.5 psi which work well for systems without filters and some that provide 5-8 psi that are more appropriate for cars with the filters. The extra pressure helps to push gas thru the old ceramic filter pores but gets reduced by the filter before it reaches the carb. The type and pressure output of your pump would be something to check closely.
On the air cleaner, definitely check the filter element to make sure it is not excessively wet with oil and make sure the oil level is no higher than the fill line stamped in the side of the bowl.
The ignition switch appears to be aftermarket and the old saying you get what you pay for is most appropriate. There are cheap junk switches and some of decent quality sitting side by side in the parts stores. Frequently the only obvious difference is several $$. If that switch has been on for a decent length of time and the problem was not happening until recently I doubt it is the issue though.
Just for reference here is the bezel on the stock Clipper ign switches should you run across one somewhere. The Clippers and 22nd series 48s used the same bezel. Ign switch was almost the same. Both were 2 position with the difference being Clippers had armored cables running to a bottom terminal on the firewall mounted coils and 48s eliminated the armor and ran the wire straight to a regular coil with both terminals on one end. The 48 coil was mounted at the engine. The other photo shows the 3 position switch used on 23rd series 49s thru 53 models with the tapered stamped bezel. Packard didn't provide a key start until the 54 models. Those switches used the same tapered stamped bezel but were one year only and have been called "delicate". I guess that is the nice way of saying they were not as heavy duty and apparently had a shorter lifespan than previous switches. If you still have or could get an original Clipper bezel there is a Pollak aftermarket key start switch that has the same threads as the original switch and will work with the bezel.
As additional information, your accelerator pedal switch is still on the carb with wires present. Should you ever want to revert to original it might not be a hard thing to do. Of course it is impossible to say what might have been done with the wiring under the dash or on the solenoid in order to make the key start from the new ignition swith work so that portion could be an issue. No denying the key start is nice because there is little chance of flooding the engine with extra pedal pushes if an engine didn't start on the first push. Many with accelerator start added a hidden pushbutton in parallel with the accelerator switch for those situations.
Attach file:
IMG_2471.jpeg (116.96 KB)
IMG_0286.jpeg (56.86 KB)
On the air cleaner, definitely check the filter element to make sure it is not excessively wet with oil and make sure the oil level is no higher than the fill line stamped in the side of the bowl.
The ignition switch appears to be aftermarket and the old saying you get what you pay for is most appropriate. There are cheap junk switches and some of decent quality sitting side by side in the parts stores. Frequently the only obvious difference is several $$. If that switch has been on for a decent length of time and the problem was not happening until recently I doubt it is the issue though.
Just for reference here is the bezel on the stock Clipper ign switches should you run across one somewhere. The Clippers and 22nd series 48s used the same bezel. Ign switch was almost the same. Both were 2 position with the difference being Clippers had armored cables running to a bottom terminal on the firewall mounted coils and 48s eliminated the armor and ran the wire straight to a regular coil with both terminals on one end. The 48 coil was mounted at the engine. The other photo shows the 3 position switch used on 23rd series 49s thru 53 models with the tapered stamped bezel. Packard didn't provide a key start until the 54 models. Those switches used the same tapered stamped bezel but were one year only and have been called "delicate". I guess that is the nice way of saying they were not as heavy duty and apparently had a shorter lifespan than previous switches. If you still have or could get an original Clipper bezel there is a Pollak aftermarket key start switch that has the same threads as the original switch and will work with the bezel.
As additional information, your accelerator pedal switch is still on the carb with wires present. Should you ever want to revert to original it might not be a hard thing to do. Of course it is impossible to say what might have been done with the wiring under the dash or on the solenoid in order to make the key start from the new ignition swith work so that portion could be an issue. No denying the key start is nice because there is little chance of flooding the engine with extra pedal pushes if an engine didn't start on the first push. Many with accelerator start added a hidden pushbutton in parallel with the accelerator switch for those situations.
Attach file:
IMG_2471.jpeg (116.96 KB)
IMG_0286.jpeg (56.86 KB)
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