Re: 356ci Engine Stalls

Posted by HH56 On 2021/12/27 21:28:04
That is correct -- the IC7 was suggested as an easily available test coil which you can tie wrap to something to hold it for a brief period to determine if it solves the problem. You need to extend the wire that is connecting to the bottom terminal on the inside and bring it out into the engine compt to power the coil. I mentioned that and where it connects in an earlier post.

If the coil does solve the issue then it can also be a total replacement coil but will need a different mounting method if you choose that option. A couple of options for mounting that modern style coil was also given because as you said, the coil is not the same configuration as the original because the firewall mount coils have not been made for years.

You may find an original type at one of our vendors or a vendor on ebay. Max Merritt or Kanter Auto list them but no matter where you find one, there are some caveats. IF you can find NOS you are looking at a 60 or 70 year old coil that you have no idea what kind of storage conditions it might have gone thru. As well as age, anything from freezing to extreme heat might have affected some storage container or warehouse and not many electrical items tolerate either extreme very well. You will be paying an arm and a leg for it too. Last time I remember someone buying one it was well over $200 and IIRC, closer to $300 and the buyer still reported issues when it was installed. Whether those issues were due to the new coil or still part of whatever was going on in the first place is unknown but the take from the experience is beware when buying any old electrical parts where anything -- tar or pitch surrounding the internal coil wiring in this case -- can dry out, melt, crack or turn brittle.

Some vendors also advertise rebuilt exchange coils but so far I have not found anyone who sells them describe exactly what constitutes a rebuild. IMO, at the very least a coil rebuild should require all new internals inside the old can but for some vendors a thorough cleaning qualifies as a rebuild while others may actually run a exchanged coil on a test fixture. Downside to that approach is on a fixture coils never get exposed to heat or vibration conditions they would be subjected to in a car. If no issues are found during the test, coil is considered good and gets the new coat of paint and likely goes on a shelf as a rebuilt. I suspect a fair number of the rebuilts fail again in actual use.

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