Re: 1954 door lock pulls
Posted by HH56 On 2022/7/3 11:18:09
I don't know if you will be able to find any new serrated type rods but if any are still available it would be found at one of our vendors such as Kanter Auto or Max Merritt or Tucson Packards. You might find good used from those same vendors or from Packards Southwest or Seattle Packards or just someone on the forum with a parts car. Aside from sedan or hardtop I believe the serrations vs threaded is the main difference. A photo would be convenient to have for anyone you reach out to for a used part so you can get something close if your specific part number is not available.
Some of the hard plastic or metal knobs did unscrew and had pull rods with threaded ends but other models such as yours had the serrated rods where knobs were made of hard rubber and sometimes plastic. Rubber knobs need to be slightly heated for removal before they will release from the serrations. Plastic needs to be heated for installation too. Since the retaining method was usually not visible many times people tried to remove the serrated type by twisting like they unscrewed or just by hard pulling with the results being the broken pull rods.
Packard suggested dealers make a special heater using an old power window cylinder solenoid that would fit over the push on hard rubber knobs and gently soften it on all sides. The temperature needed to soften the knob was given as approximately 150 degrees F. Careful use of a heat gun or hair dryer and working it all around the knob would be the modern method. With either of those heat sources is is important to protect the paint on the finish molding and avoid direct heat on the window glass.
If you cannot find a replacement rod like your existing or even one of Packards threaded end rods, one option might be to make your own rod out of a length of all thread following the general shape of the existing rod. The actual shape is not that critical as long as it follows in the general form of the existing so it clears any obstructions and the length is close so any bare rod did not show above the finish molding. If there is a round section below the serrations, the rod might even be able to be cut and end re-threaded. By use of a coupling nut and a short length of all thread the original length could be restored. Just need to make sure there is room so the wider nut repaired portion did not hit something. You would be replacing the serrated rod with the threaded type but most of the replacement knobs would be able to thread on or if needed, be made to fit and mold over the threads by using some gentle heat.
Here are proper names and part numbers. You will need to find the one listed for your body type to get the correct number. Also posted is a photo of a rear threaded type rod.
Attach file:
lock rod front.jpg (46.53 KB)
lock rod rear.jpg (35.84 KB)
lock rod.jpg (63.73 KB)
Some of the hard plastic or metal knobs did unscrew and had pull rods with threaded ends but other models such as yours had the serrated rods where knobs were made of hard rubber and sometimes plastic. Rubber knobs need to be slightly heated for removal before they will release from the serrations. Plastic needs to be heated for installation too. Since the retaining method was usually not visible many times people tried to remove the serrated type by twisting like they unscrewed or just by hard pulling with the results being the broken pull rods.
Packard suggested dealers make a special heater using an old power window cylinder solenoid that would fit over the push on hard rubber knobs and gently soften it on all sides. The temperature needed to soften the knob was given as approximately 150 degrees F. Careful use of a heat gun or hair dryer and working it all around the knob would be the modern method. With either of those heat sources is is important to protect the paint on the finish molding and avoid direct heat on the window glass.
If you cannot find a replacement rod like your existing or even one of Packards threaded end rods, one option might be to make your own rod out of a length of all thread following the general shape of the existing rod. The actual shape is not that critical as long as it follows in the general form of the existing so it clears any obstructions and the length is close so any bare rod did not show above the finish molding. If there is a round section below the serrations, the rod might even be able to be cut and end re-threaded. By use of a coupling nut and a short length of all thread the original length could be restored. Just need to make sure there is room so the wider nut repaired portion did not hit something. You would be replacing the serrated rod with the threaded type but most of the replacement knobs would be able to thread on or if needed, be made to fit and mold over the threads by using some gentle heat.
Here are proper names and part numbers. You will need to find the one listed for your body type to get the correct number. Also posted is a photo of a rear threaded type rod.
Attach file:
lock rod front.jpg (46.53 KB)
lock rod rear.jpg (35.84 KB)
lock rod.jpg (63.73 KB)
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