Re: Intermittent Starting Issues
Posted by HH56 On 2022/9/1 16:38:01
Since you said you had a new solenoid it is presumably the 288 engine and not the 356 so no starter safety circuit to contend with.
With a standard transmission there is only the ignition switch and carburetor starter switch in the starter circuit. Power from the stock ign switch is fed from the GA terminal which also feeds almost everything else in the car. A separate wire goes directly from ign to the carb switch and then on to the solenoid.
I don't remember if this is the car an aftermarket ign switch was installed in but the 22nd series stock ign switch is fairly robust with very few issues. Like everything though it is possible the ign switch has started to fail. If that were the case the typical symptom is you turn the key on and nothing seems to happen -- no gauges, no starter, no radio etc or else everything works for a bit then suddenly quits. Wiggle the ign key or turn off and back on again and everything works again. With the puff of smoke something in the switch cannot be ruled out. If it is an aftermarket switch most of those available today are overstressed when used in 6v cars with their higher current requirements -- particularly where one terminal carries all the load.
The gauges are all powered from the same wire off the ign switch GA terminal and do not have an instrument voltage regulator so if the temp and fuel gauges seem to work OK the most likely issue with the oil gauge is the sender. 22-23 series gauges require senders unlike any other year Packards so new ones can be a bit hard to find.
If the ign switch is good then the only other things to look at is the wiring between ign and carb switch having a possibly poor connection or the carb starter switch itself and how it is activated. The switch relies on the accelerator linkage being adjusted properly so the switch is moved enough to make a good solid contact. If the linkage is a bit out of adjustment it is possible the pedal is hitting the floor or something in the carb is at a limit and the switch is barely or sometimes not making contact. There is also a small steel ball inside the carb and sw assy that actually activates the switch. It has been known to stick up in its passage if the carb is really dirty. The switch does carry a fairly high current when the solenoid is first energized. The actual contact is a fairly small piece of spring like metal which is forced up between two other contacts connected to the screws. It is possible the contacts have arced or the thin metal has been overheated and lost spring tension so does not make a solid connection sometimes. There are also some tiny shims inside the switch that ensure the contact moves the proper amount for a good connection when the linkage is activated.
To narrow things down or completely rule out the carb switch you could add a temporary pushbutton in parallel with the carb switch. Wire it between GA and the wire on the carb switch coming from ign sw. Use that for awhile and if no more problems at least you know where to look. If you still have problems then look to the ign switch.
Here is a bit on adjustments and how the carb switch is activated.
Attach file:
Carb switch_Page_1.jpg (181.27 KB)
Carb switch_Page_3.jpg (147.89 KB)
Carb switch_Page_4.jpg (111.08 KB)
Carb switch_Page_5.jpg (31.24 KB)
With a standard transmission there is only the ignition switch and carburetor starter switch in the starter circuit. Power from the stock ign switch is fed from the GA terminal which also feeds almost everything else in the car. A separate wire goes directly from ign to the carb switch and then on to the solenoid.
I don't remember if this is the car an aftermarket ign switch was installed in but the 22nd series stock ign switch is fairly robust with very few issues. Like everything though it is possible the ign switch has started to fail. If that were the case the typical symptom is you turn the key on and nothing seems to happen -- no gauges, no starter, no radio etc or else everything works for a bit then suddenly quits. Wiggle the ign key or turn off and back on again and everything works again. With the puff of smoke something in the switch cannot be ruled out. If it is an aftermarket switch most of those available today are overstressed when used in 6v cars with their higher current requirements -- particularly where one terminal carries all the load.
The gauges are all powered from the same wire off the ign switch GA terminal and do not have an instrument voltage regulator so if the temp and fuel gauges seem to work OK the most likely issue with the oil gauge is the sender. 22-23 series gauges require senders unlike any other year Packards so new ones can be a bit hard to find.
If the ign switch is good then the only other things to look at is the wiring between ign and carb switch having a possibly poor connection or the carb starter switch itself and how it is activated. The switch relies on the accelerator linkage being adjusted properly so the switch is moved enough to make a good solid contact. If the linkage is a bit out of adjustment it is possible the pedal is hitting the floor or something in the carb is at a limit and the switch is barely or sometimes not making contact. There is also a small steel ball inside the carb and sw assy that actually activates the switch. It has been known to stick up in its passage if the carb is really dirty. The switch does carry a fairly high current when the solenoid is first energized. The actual contact is a fairly small piece of spring like metal which is forced up between two other contacts connected to the screws. It is possible the contacts have arced or the thin metal has been overheated and lost spring tension so does not make a solid connection sometimes. There are also some tiny shims inside the switch that ensure the contact moves the proper amount for a good connection when the linkage is activated.
To narrow things down or completely rule out the carb switch you could add a temporary pushbutton in parallel with the carb switch. Wire it between GA and the wire on the carb switch coming from ign sw. Use that for awhile and if no more problems at least you know where to look. If you still have problems then look to the ign switch.
Here is a bit on adjustments and how the carb switch is activated.
Attach file:
Carb switch_Page_1.jpg (181.27 KB)
Carb switch_Page_3.jpg (147.89 KB)
Carb switch_Page_4.jpg (111.08 KB) Carb switch_Page_5.jpg (31.24 KB)This Post was from: https://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/newbb/viewtopic.php?post_id=247747