https://www.carburetion.com/CarbNumber.asp?Number=784S (exploded view for parts locations)
I would suspect there's something in the shop manual in detail, as noted.
your other question:
The carb needle valve rule of thumb is 1-1/2 turns open. Run it in but not tight/just engaged and back it out 1.5 turns. If it's worn or the seat is bruised, that won't work and maybe parts correction is req'd. I usually take the valve stems out first time and inspect for "damage/wear" at the seat end.
commentary;
But I usual rebuild the carb first, for ethanol gas, so I've inspected and made sure it's all clean, working, and adjusted internally before using which doesn't apply here. Because, if it doesn't work, you'll be back for more questions.ie, cheap insurance.
Follow OD's method but keep track of how much you turned the screws. One way is to go both directions until it runs rough and return to the middle of those two positions. I learned "by ear" w/o a vacuum gauge. It was different world of understanding then, today it would not be unusual to stick a combustion gas analyzer on and check the mixture a bit closer and through the range of rpms to get best fuel efficiency/least emissions.
You can't tell fuel mix with vacuum, per se. There's too many things that affect vacuum and these cars are not in "new" condition generally.ie, relative measure only.
Main thing is getting the timing and idle right first.ie, sets the base line. Then go back after the mix is adjusted and recheck the idle/timing, ie returns to set point. It's a bit of an iterative process but not a fiddle forever deal. If it becomes that, something's wrong.
A craft - call a mechanic friend in and watch him/get shown the first time.
I'd probably drive it like it is and see how it's performing before messing with it, may not need adjustment? Look at the tail pipe, if it's got black soot, too rich. Maybe a little water is good.
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