Re: Body Mounts

Posted by 53 Cavalier On 2024/3/14 13:19:57
Quote:

Fish'n Jim wrote:
Did you look in the shop manual? I've haven't in some time, so don't quote me. I'm expecting some info maybe there and hidden in some sections, or if P published body manuals? P is kinda in the before period of a lot of automotive science and published info. And the co. records didn't survive all that well and what did got dispersed through the merger. You can maybe get some from the drawings through PAC or Studebaker museum. It was more a competitive trade secret world that everyone spied on/reverse engineered or got tech from vendors. Someone was supplying those rubber parts to P and would be a reference.

Need to respect the torque values also, to get proper body fitment. Torquing require clean and good threads. Compression is the reason. Different rubbers compress at different rates, aka durometer, to get the correct gap. So the rubber has to be correct type, formula too. But I'm bothering with technical details... Just as long as it doesn't shake, rattle, but rolls should be fine.
Making your own rubber parts is above and beyond, frozen or not!
fyi; If the body twists, then no amount of adjustment will work. There's usually measurements that are indictive, for collision work, etc. Not sure what P did for that?
I'm trying to forget my body mount "ordeal" on my truck. This is elegant.
Generally, the "frame off", means the two pieces were completely separated and refurbished then mated, not piece meal. It's kinda misnomer because the body comes off, not the frame? Should be a complete body off and frame restoration. But I'm messing with you now.


The shop manual does talk about fitment and how to check body alignment, which will be a project for after I'm done my floor pan repairs and have all my new mounts in place. A list of what parts go in what place I have not been able to find and haven't been able to come up with a list using the parts book either, so I just pulled out one side to figure out what all I needed, much of of the hardware I'm able to reuse.

Torque is 20-23 foot lbs for the cushions. Manual doesn't say, but I would suspect that this would be something to check after a couple of weeks once things have settled.

I suspect finding out the density of the original cushions is probably not likely. I figure the cushions that I have will either compress a bit more if they are softer, or a bit less if they are harder when torqued correctly. (I have heard that Steele Rubber mounts are too "soft".)

The manual also says it's a good way to check for frame or body damage, that is, if the mount holes are not lining up that is a good indication that something has been bent, possibly due to a collision.

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