Re: Bucking Slightly at Cruising Speeds
Posted by 53 Cavalier On 2024/7/29 9:33:16
Quote:
Good to get those points replaced, along with the condenser. Bad condenser may be the reason your points are burnt.
I currently have a Flamethrower on my car (installed this spring), with points, and it's been running well.
For adjusting your throttle linkage you do not need the special tool, you just need the measurement from the top of the head to the center of the hole. On my 53 it's 2 3/4", but I'm not sure what the distance is for your car.
Once you have this set you can check the arm on your transmission's throttle valve to make sure it's in the correct position. My service manual said to adjust it so that a certain size pin (smaller than the actual pin) would just fit in, following a few steps. A hook off my tool board was just the right size for this.
The linkage on my cross-shaft was way too short before I adjusted it to the correct position.
With regards to your low range not working after adjusting it, I wonder if the piston is leaking and that's the reason it's not engaging?? Or maybe the shift linkage is out of adjustment? Hard to imagine that the low range band is burnt up as I don't think it would get that much use. With that in mind maybe there is something else, such as leaky seals inside your transmission, that are causing the issue you originally asked about. Having said that, it doesn't really make sense that leaky seals would cause issues when letting off the gas. Maybe the issue is in your drive line and under load it's okay, but as soon as you let off something moves a bit, like a bad u-joint. Just guessing!!! I'd love to be able to go for a drive with you so could hear and feel what's going on.
Keep us posted!!
Joe wrote:
Digging in as we speak. I did check my points earlier today, found them to somewhat burned, so there's probably something there. I thought I had a new set, but no dice. Cleaned what I have for now. The coil (Echlin IC-7) tested good. about 1.2 Ohms on the primary winding, 9.84k on the secondary. No indication of leaking.
Checking the linkages - is there a workaround for the throttle cross shaft to carburetor adjustment. The manual only refer to a gauge, PU-312. Meanwhile, I've checked transmission throttle valve link; confirmed 5/32" short of lining up with the pin hole. (Related to this, troubleshooting section does also talk about the Low range and behaving like it's in neutral. The throttle valve link needs to be disconnected to try to free the "timing valve." Will try that later.) I've tried reset the Low range band (torque tighten to 20 ft. lbs., back off 1-3/4 turns), hasn't yielded a change there.
Going to recheck all my carb adjustments, too. Thank you all! I'll let you know if there any changes!
Good to get those points replaced, along with the condenser. Bad condenser may be the reason your points are burnt.
I currently have a Flamethrower on my car (installed this spring), with points, and it's been running well.
For adjusting your throttle linkage you do not need the special tool, you just need the measurement from the top of the head to the center of the hole. On my 53 it's 2 3/4", but I'm not sure what the distance is for your car.
Once you have this set you can check the arm on your transmission's throttle valve to make sure it's in the correct position. My service manual said to adjust it so that a certain size pin (smaller than the actual pin) would just fit in, following a few steps. A hook off my tool board was just the right size for this.
The linkage on my cross-shaft was way too short before I adjusted it to the correct position.
With regards to your low range not working after adjusting it, I wonder if the piston is leaking and that's the reason it's not engaging?? Or maybe the shift linkage is out of adjustment? Hard to imagine that the low range band is burnt up as I don't think it would get that much use. With that in mind maybe there is something else, such as leaky seals inside your transmission, that are causing the issue you originally asked about. Having said that, it doesn't really make sense that leaky seals would cause issues when letting off the gas. Maybe the issue is in your drive line and under load it's okay, but as soon as you let off something moves a bit, like a bad u-joint. Just guessing!!! I'd love to be able to go for a drive with you so could hear and feel what's going on.
Keep us posted!!
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