Re: Changing 1947 Packard 2106 Radio Buttons
Posted by HH56 On 2025/3/25 16:06:21
Radio needs to be out of the car. I found it easier to work with it on a workbench laying on its back
The front cover containing the speaker is held by a series of screws on the sides and across the bottom front. The front bottom 4 pass thru the chrome plate. All those screws need to come out so the front cover and speaker can be moved out of the way. Note that the speaker has 3 wires soldered to it and if the wires are not long enough to raise the speaker off the chassis and securely support it on something very close by --maybe some folded towels to cushion and protect the components at the top -- while working on the chrome piece and buttons, the wires will need to be unsoldered so the assy can be completely removed and set aside. To access the wires and terminals on the speaker the back side of the radio chassis will need to be removed. Be sure to mark both the wire and the terminal it was removed from before disconnecting so they can go back correctly.
The chrome piece has additional screws on each side and 2 on the bottom. Once those are removed and the center manual tuning knob assy is removed the chrome piece will pull straight off. It would be a good idea to clean the plastic color wheel on the tone control and the purple filter in the chrome piece that is over the lucite dial scale illumination pickup while everything is open. If you have a long and small tip applicator such as a needle bottle a drop of light machine oil on the pivot points or slide surfaces of the tuning mechanism wouldn't hurt either.
The buttons are a press fit and will just pull straight off although there may be a bit of resistance. When installing the new buttons they just push back on but be careful to align the tuning shaft which is the item circled in this very blurry photo of an empty spot. The shaft has a shape that must match positions to be able to slide into the receiving end of the serrated tuning wheel at the end of the button. If you try to push and the button doesn't want to go very far you need to pull back slightly and keep turning the wheel in small increments until the shapes match. Be as gentle as possible when pushing on the button as too hard a push without the shaft going into the wheel receiving socket will cause damage to the new button. When the buttons are properly positioned the metal part of the button that is visible on the bottom of the button and will be fully in the notch and touching the plastic.
The front cover containing the speaker is held by a series of screws on the sides and across the bottom front. The front bottom 4 pass thru the chrome plate. All those screws need to come out so the front cover and speaker can be moved out of the way. Note that the speaker has 3 wires soldered to it and if the wires are not long enough to raise the speaker off the chassis and securely support it on something very close by --maybe some folded towels to cushion and protect the components at the top -- while working on the chrome piece and buttons, the wires will need to be unsoldered so the assy can be completely removed and set aside. To access the wires and terminals on the speaker the back side of the radio chassis will need to be removed. Be sure to mark both the wire and the terminal it was removed from before disconnecting so they can go back correctly.
The chrome piece has additional screws on each side and 2 on the bottom. Once those are removed and the center manual tuning knob assy is removed the chrome piece will pull straight off. It would be a good idea to clean the plastic color wheel on the tone control and the purple filter in the chrome piece that is over the lucite dial scale illumination pickup while everything is open. If you have a long and small tip applicator such as a needle bottle a drop of light machine oil on the pivot points or slide surfaces of the tuning mechanism wouldn't hurt either.
The buttons are a press fit and will just pull straight off although there may be a bit of resistance. When installing the new buttons they just push back on but be careful to align the tuning shaft which is the item circled in this very blurry photo of an empty spot. The shaft has a shape that must match positions to be able to slide into the receiving end of the serrated tuning wheel at the end of the button. If you try to push and the button doesn't want to go very far you need to pull back slightly and keep turning the wheel in small increments until the shapes match. Be as gentle as possible when pushing on the button as too hard a push without the shaft going into the wheel receiving socket will cause damage to the new button. When the buttons are properly positioned the metal part of the button that is visible on the bottom of the button and will be fully in the notch and touching the plastic.
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