What BH said in post #13 is very well said. That is why I always ask why a person feels their engine is overheating. In my opinion the best indication of a cooling system that is not keeping up with the demand is when the system boils over. Assuming that the correct radiator cap is installed if the system is not boiling over then all is well. As stated in the above post #13 the 3 degree rise in the boiling point of the coolant for each pound pressure is correct BH stated that better than I did.
My opinion is that unless the gauge is pegged and steam is billowing out from under the hood it's ok. I have a 74 chevy van that I installed a mechanical temperature gauge on because I was concerned with temperature. On a normal to hot day the temperature runs between 220 and 240 degrees. Sometimes as high as 245. When I first saw that years ago I was concerned with the higher number but have since learned that is normal for that van.
Boiling point of water, 212 + 45 pounds ( 15 lbs. X 3 degrees per pound rise 45 degree rise) = 257 degrees. Indicates that the 240 operating temperature indicated is well below the point where the system will boil over.
If the designers felt it was necessary for the engine to run cooler they would have lowered the pressure set by the cap and made the radiator larger.
Again Only my opinions.
(Added later)
Do heed the warning about adding cold water to a hot engine.Quote:
Millions of cars have boiled over at one point or another as an occasional thing without suffering cracked blocks. But severely minimize how far you drive under that condition and don't do it as a matter of routine. But what surely will crack the block, generally at the exhaust valve seats, is adding cold water to an overheated engine which is low on coolant. If water is needed, allow the engine to cool down, and then add it SLOWLY with the engine running
Owen said this well.
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