Re: 359 Straight Eight Engine

Posted by Gary Marshall On 2010/12/23 21:06:05

Tuning up your Engine, again thanks to EHow.com may be useful to Members.

The first thing I like to do is to clean as much varnish as I can from the fuel system. I use Gumout Carburetor & Fuel Injector Cleaner in the tank. This cleans the gas tank & fuel lines leading to and including the Carburetor or Fuel Injectors. I plan it so that I burn at least one treated tank full before performing the rest of the tune-up.

2
After cleaning the fuel system, replace the fuel filter, PCV & air filters. I prefer using Fram filters, personally.
Since I have the breather open, at this point, I will usually spray clean the throttle & choke plates of the carburetor or throttle body with Gumout carburetor cleaner. And, spray clean the MAF sensor with CRC (Mass Air Flow sensor) cleaner. I will also closely inspect all vacuum lines, fuel lines, brake lines, electrical wiring, belts and hoses for wear, cracks, heat damage, rodent chews, and replace or repair as necessary. Go ahead and top off the brake fluid, power steering and windshield washer fluids, while you're at it. Also, use a hydrometer to check the strength of your anti-freeze. If it is dirty or weak, go ahead and flush the coolant system, refilling with at least a 50/50 mix. I like Prestone Anti-Freeze.

3
Another important step of any tune-up is to remove carbon build-up, especially if the vehicle is typically only driven short distances at low speeds. Carbon build up can cause burnt valves, pre-mature wear on valve seals, oil burning, loss of compression/power and hot spots on piston heads. A simple, non invasive method to accomplish this is by steam cleaning. With the engine at operating temperature, open the air cleaner to access the intake. Grab a 16-20 ounce bottle of water and remove the cap and hold your thumb over the opening. Increase engine speed to about 2,000 RPM, by moving the throttle linkage. Slowly, and I mean slowly, drizzle water into the intake. The engine will start to bog down. Stop the water and maintain the idle speed, until it picks back up. Repeat this process until the bottle is empty. Then, after closing the breather, take the vehicle out on the road and drive it a few miles. Hit the highway, if at all possible. This will insure that all the moisture and loosened carbon deposits are removed. You could also treat your gas and engine oil with zMax or Lucas micro-lubricants to remove and prevent carbon buildup.

4
Now is a good time to inspect the Battery terminals. You can dissolve that crusty build up with a little bit of water and baking soda. Be careful not to allow any to enter the vent caps or to short out both terminals together. Removing the Negative first, and reconnecting it last, dry the terminals and battery posts with a shop rag, then clean them using a battery terminal brush. After tightening, Spray coat the terminals with Permatex Battery Protector & Sealer, or apply petroleum jelly, to protect them from the elements.

5
Next, I'll move on to the ignition system. I'll start by replacing the spark plugs & plug wires. I prefer Bosch Platinum+2 plugs and Accel plug wire sets. If you are having trouble with a seized plug or two, follow the link I placed in the resource area to a related article. I will inspect and replace the Distributor Cap and Rotor, (and, for you classic car owners, replace the points and set the dwell). Some newer vehicles have a 'Distributor-less Ignition' system which has no Cap or Rotor and eliminates maintenance.

6
As far as the ignition timing goes; unless you have a Classic, it is computer controlled. When replacing a Distributor these days, all you need do is line up the marks and lock it down. For the Classics, knowing how to use a timing light is essential. It is just a matter of disconnecting and plugging the vacuum advance, setting the idle to the required RPM at operating temperature, loosening the hold down clamp and gently rotating the distributor until the strobe indicates that the spark is at the proper point (usually advanced 8-10 degrees before TDC), then tighten the clamp.

7
While I am on the subject of 'Classics,' since the greater majority are carbureted, you may as well adjust your air/fuel ratio at this point. You might have more than one mixture screw and may have to drill and remove a factory installed cap to access them. Once you have that out of the way, and with the engine running at operating temperature, slowly turn each screw clockwise (one at a time) until the engine just starts to idle rough. Then, back the screw out half a turn. This is referred to as a 'Lean Best' setting, and will give you the best MPG under most operating conditions.

8

Fram Filters - all three of these are 2-C and fit the same engine.
Change the oil & oil filter. Again, I prefer Fram filters. The Engine's Instructor I had, when I went to Lincoln Tech. (Automotive Tech. School) in the mid 80's, taught me to up-size my oil filter whenever there was room enough in the engine compartment. Just be sure to match the bottom plate. For example, all three filters in the photo have a 2-C plate. They all have the same thread and seal, meaning they are interchangeable. But, look at the difference in length!
The point is NOT to extend your regular oil change intervals, but rather to keep it cleaner with a larger filter element. An added benefit is the transfer of more heat through the larger canister surface. This helps slightly reduce thermal breakdown.
I also prefer to use Castrol Syntec (Synthetic Oil) in my vehicles. You should use the proper weight/viscosity for optimum protection in your climate. Refer to your Owner's manual. And, as I mentioned above, treating your oil with zMax or Lucas micro-lubricants help to keep your engine clean of carbon buildup.