Re: Eliminating Hot Spot?

Posted by Mike On 2011/5/25 20:36:01

I'm sorry, i typed the last response in a very large hurry heading out the door.

"You said you lack some auto knowledge, all of us do. The statement above from your post indicates that you do not know how a carburetor works"

I'm sorry, i meant it would give it less air and it should fire, right?, as in if it's a LEAN condition as opposed to the rich condition you were referring to. I was saying how i could test the opposite of your test to verify results if your theory works. It should start and run testing with your idea, and NOT start shutting the choke if your theory is correct, and if it's too lean (my thoughts) are correct, it would be the opposite.

I know the throttle blades are on the bottom of the carb venturi and the choke blade is on the top. I just didn't know they called it a choke valve in Packard terminology.

I DO know a ton about carburetter theory and certain models for the myriad of vehicles i own and work on, what i lack is experience with this model on this motor type...a super low compression flat head that run a little warmer and lazier than motors i'm used to. That misstatement was my mistake; basically calling me ignorant about it was yours.

Suggesting that this motor and your one-step-before-modern day OHV V8 likely quadrajet fed GM motor would have the same issues on different gas IS apples to oranges. Your motor is basically the same as my Pontiac 428, albeit with more emissions gear. Likely a buick 350 or olds 401 but whatever. I wouldn't expect the same trouble from a given source on those motors as i would on ours, or ours vs a 19-teens Packard. The difference in technology on the OHV higher compression v8 means they'll run ok no matter what some backyard mechanic does to them. Our motors are a bit more finicky. The 428 starts and runs without a hitch and perfectly...no matter what off the shelf carb or old thing from a swap meet i throw on. You just don't get that with old 6v low compression motors, jet sizes, etc have to be decently close to correct if you want trouble free performance. Like you said, i could just make it 12v alternator battery etc. OR i could find the cause or contributing causes to the hot start/rough idle issue.





"Shjutting it off will give cold running problems including carburetor icing which can be very dangerous as the car will stop running unespectedly."

That just won't happen, and you know it. No one is taking their packard out to get the family Christmas tree anymore. I'm willing to sacrifice time needed to warm up in chilly weather and longer warm up times before really laying on any pedal for long term ease of use. EVEN if i took it out in the snow, the under hood temps alone would be enough to keep the carb and pump warm and toasty. The convection alone would be fine, and even if i blocked the heat riser with a plate (like so many people do on so many different engine models of many years with varying degrees of success), the exhaust is still connected, metal to metal, with the intake and will heat it more than enough. Who on here is complaining about having a Packard that's running too cold under the hood, in any weather?!



I totally see your point that a fuel mixture issue could be the problem here vs me approaching it likely incorrectly from a heat standpoint, but you can't do enough to keep almost any motor (or tranny) running cooler to help it last longer. I'm not trying to run a 100 degree Packard, i want it to run smooth and the right heat range helps do that. However, we're not using the car as the factory intended in all weather types and temp, and i would attempt slight changes and modifications IF they provided more reliability for MY normal usage.

Anyways, thank you for the help, you gave me something interesting to test with to verify if my carb was, in fact, refurbed properly if there may be an internal issue the pro didn't catch. Thanks for that, i do like to double check anything i have the ability to verify instead of taking someones word for it that it's fixed.