Re: HELP! - Ignition Lock Cylinder Removal

Posted by Jim L. in OR On 2013/7/12 22:45:24

Thank you Howard for your usual prompt response. I remembered that with Ford it was left to accessory, pin and more left but I just couldn't find the tab to push. So on the off chance Packard followed old GM (60's at least) I tried the "run" possition one more time and finally caught a glimpse of the tab. I pushed that with my trusty ice pick and at last the cylinder came out. Once I could compare the two, the reason for hide and seek was clear. The hole in the pot metal body of the switch for the lock cylinder was visibly larger than the ond in the NOS switch and once I got the lock cylinder installed (just insert with key in cylinder into the switch body and turn) it was clear there was a lot of "slop" in the rebuilt I got from Max Merritt. I should have known it wasn't going to be that easy.

The lock cylinder I am using is, as far as I know original to the car. It does have what suppose is a key code stamped right at the top of the clyinder. If it is, it may come in very handy later. I don't know if it is supposed to be possible to remove the key from the lock in "run" and "acc" as well as "off" but I was able to with the old switch. About a week ago I misplaced the new key(s) I had cut when the rebuilt from MM came and had been using an old worn key. It worked in the ignition switch and driver's door but not the passenger door. With the now spec switch I was able to get the key to turn to "acc" and back to "off" and remove the key in "off" but it would not turn to "run" and of course not to "start" either.

So I'm going to be key hunting for the rest of the weekend (there are two sets that think they're Howard Hughes) and if I can't find them by Monday, I'll take the ignition switch, passenger door lock and maybe the driver's door lock for good measure, to Atlasta Locks here in Portland that has done tremendous things for me in the past 20-30 years.

I guess I was just not supposed to be part of this year's National Collector Car Day either.

So in summation, to remove the ignition lock cylinder I
unscrew and move the glove box down and to the side, firmly grab the ignition switch through the glove box opening (after disconnecting the battery, of course), firmly hold the chrome "lock" against the dash while turning the switch and carefully remove the switch to what was the glove box area then use a 3/8 box wrench to gently remove the nuts from the 4 terminals at the back of the switch.

Worked for me.....

When I sure I won't have to remove it all again I'll reassemble in the reverse of the above.

Some 20 minute chore.

Riki, thank you for reminding me to be carefull. The last thing I want to do is break off any of those ears.

I also want to especially thank Craig for suggesting I start with the switch instead of the ring gear and/or starter.

I also want to thank The Flackmaster for having Santa bring me Christmas in July. After comparing the slop in the old/rebuilt switch with the lack thereof in the new switch I'm sure I've got the stalling, screeching and other symptoms cleared by this NOS switch. And BigKev's advice and counsel is, as always very helpful as well as Kevin.

And Howard, thanks again for your help in this as well as all the other things you've rescued me from over the past 3 years.

I know I'm forgetting someone in this post and it's predecessor, so please forgive me and know that it was not intentional - I'm just real tired right now.

More when I find a working key. But now....