Re: HELP! - Ignition Lock Cylinder Removal

Posted by Jim L. in OR On 2013/7/19 16:02:53

Looking at the chart Owen-Dyneto posted to another of my "smoke signals";I went to the NAPA site and found that the KS 6308 Ford ingnition switch is still listed and looks a lot like the Packard switch. The price listed was $28.09. I don't know if it will fit through the dash and if it does, how I'd hold it in place but I figure those are secondary considerations at the moment.

A question about burnt wiring for those of you with more electrical experience than me (damn near everyone). On my melt down the only wire that showed damage was the power antenna wire going from the ACC post to the Antenna Switch. Does the fact that about an 1 1/4" of insulation burned/melted off starting the ACC post back point to that wire likely being the guilty party? It and the switch are the only things damaged.

I'm thinking about putting the old switch ( the one that occassionally killed the engine) back in for a brief test to see if the car will still start & run. This time I'll not fasten down the battery clamps, leave the glove box out and have a fire extinguisher at hand. Or do you all think I'm really asking for it (and thus likely to get it) and should just spring for the $30.00 NAPA switch.

When I do go to NAPA I'll will be following Owen_Dyneto's excellent advise and buying a GOOD battery dis-connect switch. I also plan on picking up a couple of inline fuse holders; one for the power antenna switch on the '55 and the other for the same thing on my '51 which is also without a fuse for such a heavy current drawing item.

I also want to get some sort of fuse/breaker to go in the main current feed from the starter relay to the rest of the car. I know Lincoln in the 70s had a fuseable (sp) link which melted if the current draw got too big. Any thoughts on what the rating on such a item should be on the V8 models as well as the 6 volt?