Re: Ignition switch ground

Posted by HH56 On 2015/12/24 21:46:44

BE CAREFUL in trying to bend the tabs. The zinc diecast is very brittle and if the chrome looks cracked or crazed the tabs will break off with the least little effort. Frequently just vibration and pressure from the spring is enough to do it. Once they break off the tabs cannot be reattached so bezel itself cannot be repaired without some extra material over the bezel to replace and duplicate the function. Because of the size of the hole in dash it has to be in the form of something removable that can be installed and fastened in position once the bezel is thru the dash.

Contact with the dash won't help with any internal problems in the switch. As was mentioned, the ground does nothing except work the bulb. The ignition switch type used from 54-56 with the key start was relatively weak compared to the earlier switches and failures are somewhat common. Part of the issue in the senior cars is the large pinion shift starter solenoid draws a considerable amount of current thru the switch. The starter portion is frequently the place where issues arise. Someone mentioned Packard recommended installing a relay to handle the current but I personally don't recall seeing that bulletin. Would appreciate if someone has the bulletin and can post it.

Overall, whIle I haven't found any actual Packard supplied ratings for the switch I do believe based on other switches common to the time and fuse ratings Packard specified for various items, the amps that are continuously running thru the switch is probably at about maximum it can handle. The contacts are stressed and probably run hot. The contacts are embedded in plastic so any heat would soften and could warp or change positions and make the problem worse. Switch life is reduced accordingly.

New switches are still available -- but expensive -- and I think one of the vendors might have rebuilts. Have not heard good info on how reliable the rebuilds are though.