Re: T/L Manual Control Switch
Posted by HH56 On 2017/7/23 19:49:47
As Randy said, it can be done if there are no more factory switches but is not the best solution. The most important part of adding any manual switch operation is the switch absolutely must be wired before the the limit switches so they are in the circuit. Too many have wired directly to the solenoids bypassing the limit switches and have suffered bent or broken components as a result.
Because the antenna and other non factory switches do not have the center disconnect position the factory instrument board on/off toggle switch will need to provide the disconnect function. It MUST be turned off before you use the manual operation or as soon as the car is out of level the control switch will come into action. Two switches will then fight one another and both motor solenoids will be active at the same time. At best that would blow the motor power fuse, at worst it would cause damage in the motor. Remembering to turn off the system first is the biggest problem in using a non factory switch.
The factory switch is a 3 position non spring return switch. Normally it is in the center position which allows the power wire to feed straight thru to the control switch. When the manual switch is moved to the up or down position it stays there. The power to the control switch is interrupted so it cannot operate and ground is provided directly to the solenoids to move in a direction. Limit switches stop the movement. As long as the manual switch is in either position except center the control switch will stay inoperative.
Here is the schematic for the 56 factory manual switch and another on using a different type (antenna, spring loaded toggle, push buttons, etc) switch. The factory switch has a loom with terminals that plug into the terminals on the stock TL harness. If a manual switch is installed on a 55 with the stock 55 control switch, the function and wiring is the same but the connection points and terminal types are different and will need to be changed.
Attach file:
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Because the antenna and other non factory switches do not have the center disconnect position the factory instrument board on/off toggle switch will need to provide the disconnect function. It MUST be turned off before you use the manual operation or as soon as the car is out of level the control switch will come into action. Two switches will then fight one another and both motor solenoids will be active at the same time. At best that would blow the motor power fuse, at worst it would cause damage in the motor. Remembering to turn off the system first is the biggest problem in using a non factory switch.
The factory switch is a 3 position non spring return switch. Normally it is in the center position which allows the power wire to feed straight thru to the control switch. When the manual switch is moved to the up or down position it stays there. The power to the control switch is interrupted so it cannot operate and ground is provided directly to the solenoids to move in a direction. Limit switches stop the movement. As long as the manual switch is in either position except center the control switch will stay inoperative.
Here is the schematic for the 56 factory manual switch and another on using a different type (antenna, spring loaded toggle, push buttons, etc) switch. The factory switch has a loom with terminals that plug into the terminals on the stock TL harness. If a manual switch is installed on a 55 with the stock 55 control switch, the function and wiring is the same but the connection points and terminal types are different and will need to be changed.
Attach file:
(81.91 KB)
(67.98 KB)
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