Re: Chrome, gold plating, brush plating, vapor deposition

Posted by d c On 2016/2/9 18:56:46
Hello 352 V8 fans. This started as query for the 55 Clipper marker lens chevron treatment but correspondence with others who have tried to restore plastic emblems finds a lack of success and little DIY info on these subjects.
From the info I have gathered it looks as though the vacuum vapor deposition method was used to create the silver and gold coatings on the inside of the plastic lenses. This method could be done after the lens was premasked on some surfaces and in fact done after( and over ) other coatings such as semi transparent red or blue. This did create a very brilliant, lustrous effect showing through the previously applied colors. In the case of the Clipper,an emblem could be masked on the back with a pre-punched "ship wheel spoke" design, sprayed black, then demasked and vapor deposit aluminum over top, resulting in a brilliant silver ship wheel on black as seen through the plastic from the front. In the case of the red emblems or the green steering wheel center cap, the Design is masked, painted with a semi-transparent red, ( or green, blue etc) then demasked and vapor deposited aluminum over the back giving a bright silver ship wheel showing on the areas that were masked clear plastic, and a luminous effect of the silver through the previously applied color. (This process is still being used by a company making pony car emblems and was described on an internet link- (some were 5 or6 step maskings). Recreating the luster on the plastic emblems has certainly been a challenge as many know trying to replicate the metallic effect with any type of silver paint is unsatisfactory. There is a you tube tutorial posted showing the red portion of a 70's Cougar emblem being restored. The textured(faceted) surface on the backside of the lens after cleaning off all old coating is sprayed with several coats of a semi transparent dark candy apple paint and then over coated with a spray of silver to try to achieve the original effect of the emblem. (Google or Search cougar emblem restoration in you tube). His method seems to be satisfactory though it is hard to tell in the pictures and he admits this is a trial and error ordeal adjusting the amount of red coats so as not to be too light or dark since the brilliance of the silver paint does not approach the vapor deposit. The texture or faceted surface on the back of some emblems adds to the effect but would seem to be very difficult to clean all the old coating off without etching or chemical hazing. The surface needs to be clean, clear, almost polished for acceptable restoration. ( Has anyone tried a sonic tank?)
As far as the original vapor deposition-the silver is said to be aluminum vaporized and the gold was a brass or bronze alloy and then coated with a gray paint for corrosion protection.
Speaking for most DIYers if not all, an acceptable finish without breaking the bank and DOES NOT require caustic chemicals, deadly fumes, or expensive materials that can be done at home is what we all search after. There may be an acceptable solution for the gold coating( and possibly the silver) on larger flat areas of some parts(ie the 55 fr marker lens chevron), as these areas are more easily cleaned of the old vapor deposit. There is one more effect going on on these plastic emblems and lenses I want to bring attention to which is hard to pick up on photos but I will try to do so. The plastic can be up to 1/8 inch thick and when they were originally produced a silver, gold, green ,or red coating on a polished EDGE of these parts causes a "fiber optic" effect transmitting this hue up the "skin" of the plastic. This needs to be reproduced also to achieve the original pleasing appearance that your eye picks up. Look at the pic of the steering wheel center cap medallion. The edge where a finger is pointing to a green band which is INSIDE the thickness of the plastic visible as a dark green tone only at this angle - diminishing lighter and lighter as the your reference angle changes more to vertical from the surface. This is not a tint in the plastic. It is from the edge treatment. These 55 lenses will only look right if coated on the inside of the plastic with an appropriate material and treated to an edge treatment with another material.
On the 55 gages "gold" center medallion and the 55 Clipper silver ships wheels and the silver and gold fr marker lenses I had asked if anyone had pioneered an acceptable coating to reproduce the metallic effect?(that is DIY). I have 2 other questions. Can anyone else confirm the 55 Clipper fr marker lens with chevron has silver coatings on the inside of the rim and EDGES of the plastic and gold on the inside of the chevron and the edges but not on the side walls(inner or outer) of the separation wall between the clear lens and the top of the chevron? My originals were quite worn. I would ask anyone to post pics of the inner face of a lens here(or mail me a spare lens for photo representation). I would like to confirm that the original design intended for (or did not) light to be allowed onto the chevron with parking lights on. Also if anyone could tell me if there is a left and right fr marker lens? I checked the parts book and the housings are the same part # rt and left so they are the same but my lenses are both "guide F8-55" and have RH on top and a small part number on the back on the edge of the lens which does not match the number in the parts book for the lenses. Was there a rt and left or only 1 lens produced for cost savings? Thanks.
I also want to thank the gentlemen from Signs n Things for the generosity , expertise and time!
55 st wheel orig center
55 marker lens




Having trouble resizing pix on phone

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