Re: Inconsistant leveling system on '56 Clipper
Posted by HH56 On 2017/6/17 22:21:13
The control switch would be the only thing that would vary the time -- as long as the car is enough out of level to trigger a change and you have the original switch, the bimetal strips and their contacts do the timing. The old bimetal contacts tend to oxidize and cause variations in original switches. If the contacts are dirty it takes more pressure from the strip (and more time for the heater to bend it sufficiently) before the relay finally energizes. If you did wind up replacing the control switch one of the modern solid state conversions should be fairly consistent.
It is possible the brake switch is showing age and not supplying power to the control switch at times. If the brake lights are working consistently the brake switch being at fault is less likely but as you said, it is less expensive than a control switch. NOS brake switches are getting to be expensive but you can buy one of the conversion kits to change to a regular easy to find 2 terminal switch for probably less than a NOS switch. You can build your own conversion for even less or, you could change to a mechanical switch as many have done and pretty much eliminate future switch replacements. Some of the original mechanical conversions used a GM switch intended for cruise control cars. The cruise control portion was used for the TL. If you do the relay and 2 terminal hydraulic conversion and want to go mechanical at some point then a very inexpensive two terminal mechanical brake switch can be used instead.
If you add the manual override switch be sure and wire it per the factory so it goes thru the limit switches. Max Merritt used to have some original kits in stock. I don't know if he still has any so if you do go aftermarket with the switch just be aware that bypassing the limit switches can cause serious damage if the compensator moves too far. Too many have found that out the hard way.
Here are a couple of drawings that might help.
Attach file:
(76.97 KB)
(54.33 KB)
(73.13 KB)
It is possible the brake switch is showing age and not supplying power to the control switch at times. If the brake lights are working consistently the brake switch being at fault is less likely but as you said, it is less expensive than a control switch. NOS brake switches are getting to be expensive but you can buy one of the conversion kits to change to a regular easy to find 2 terminal switch for probably less than a NOS switch. You can build your own conversion for even less or, you could change to a mechanical switch as many have done and pretty much eliminate future switch replacements. Some of the original mechanical conversions used a GM switch intended for cruise control cars. The cruise control portion was used for the TL. If you do the relay and 2 terminal hydraulic conversion and want to go mechanical at some point then a very inexpensive two terminal mechanical brake switch can be used instead.
If you add the manual override switch be sure and wire it per the factory so it goes thru the limit switches. Max Merritt used to have some original kits in stock. I don't know if he still has any so if you do go aftermarket with the switch just be aware that bypassing the limit switches can cause serious damage if the compensator moves too far. Too many have found that out the hard way.
Here are a couple of drawings that might help.
Attach file:
(76.97 KB)
(54.33 KB)
(73.13 KB)
This Post was from: https://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/newbb/viewtopic.php?post_id=193143