Harmonic Balancer Install advice
Posted by Bob E. On 2018/4/17 22:35:47
Hi,
I'm reinstalling the harmonic balancer on my '55. It was taken off at the machine shop so I am not completely familiar with the process. It has the power steering pulley still attached.
The rental installer tools from the auto part stores use an 3/4"-16 insert to fit into the snout of the crank, but the insert fits into a larger diameter bolt that does not pass through the hole for the power steering pulley. So it wont work as specified.
I was able to get around this by using the bolt for the harmonic damper remover from the kit. It is the right thread size and by using the bearing with the kit plus a new Grade 8 nut and washer plus a 'spacer' (1" diam galvanized pipe nipple) this worked. The spacer was there to allow me to get a wrench on the nut.
It worked really well although the galvanized pipe did not handle the compression very well....
My question: I have tightened the damper to the point where I remember it being relative to the timing marks attached to the timing chain cover. But there is still ~3/16" gap before the damper will bottom out against the crank. If I go that far, it seems like it will be very hard to see the timing mark on the damper as it will be behind the lip of the timing values on the timing chain cover.
Is this right? Should I just switch to the actual crank bolt and torque to the proper specs? Or is there some spacer etc missing? Seems like I would want to tighten the damper until it bottoms up.
Don't want to screw this part up. Thanks
Bob
Attach file:
(314.66 KB)
(339.86 KB)
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(274.91 KB)
(400.85 KB)
(179.44 KB)
(400.30 KB)
I'm reinstalling the harmonic balancer on my '55. It was taken off at the machine shop so I am not completely familiar with the process. It has the power steering pulley still attached.
The rental installer tools from the auto part stores use an 3/4"-16 insert to fit into the snout of the crank, but the insert fits into a larger diameter bolt that does not pass through the hole for the power steering pulley. So it wont work as specified.
I was able to get around this by using the bolt for the harmonic damper remover from the kit. It is the right thread size and by using the bearing with the kit plus a new Grade 8 nut and washer plus a 'spacer' (1" diam galvanized pipe nipple) this worked. The spacer was there to allow me to get a wrench on the nut.
It worked really well although the galvanized pipe did not handle the compression very well....
My question: I have tightened the damper to the point where I remember it being relative to the timing marks attached to the timing chain cover. But there is still ~3/16" gap before the damper will bottom out against the crank. If I go that far, it seems like it will be very hard to see the timing mark on the damper as it will be behind the lip of the timing values on the timing chain cover.
Is this right? Should I just switch to the actual crank bolt and torque to the proper specs? Or is there some spacer etc missing? Seems like I would want to tighten the damper until it bottoms up.
Don't want to screw this part up. Thanks
Bob
Attach file:
(314.66 KB)
(339.86 KB)
(223.20 KB)
(274.91 KB)
(400.85 KB)
(179.44 KB)
(400.30 KB)
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