Re: Torsion-Level Problem
Posted by HH56 On 2018/5/8 18:32:37
If you cannot use the worm shaft to move the compensator the other way to unload the bars is to LOOSEN but do not remove the 7 bolts holding the two halves of the compensator together. The planetary ring rests in a groove on either side and is held by friction. Once the halves are loose enough the tension on the bars will rotate the ring in the housing groove until the bars find a neutral point. When doing the procedure be sure to keep your hands away from the center links because depending on how loose the ring gets it may start to suddenly release and things can move quickly.
I don't remember the clearance for the transverse bar screws at the compensator end but since you are replacing them you will most likely want to disconnect the transverse bars at the short bar end and remove everything all together. Depending on your car and the way it is supported when working on the compensator, the neutral point when load is off may want to rotate the ball links on the end of the short bars sufficiently into the frame that you will not be able to get a drag link socket on the screws holding the transverse bars to the links. If that happens, to prevent the larger issue of not being able to move the links back to a working location I have found it helps to wire or tape a small wood block approx 4x4" inside the frame on each side as insurance the links will hit that first and can not swing into the frame so far the screws are unable to be accessed. Even though there might still be tension on the short bars if they hit the blocks there will be none on the transverse bars or compensator and things can still be removed.
Here is a paragraph from bulletin 55-T12 instructing mechanics how to unload the bars if the worm drive was not operational and another illustration showing the bolts that need to loosen.
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I don't remember the clearance for the transverse bar screws at the compensator end but since you are replacing them you will most likely want to disconnect the transverse bars at the short bar end and remove everything all together. Depending on your car and the way it is supported when working on the compensator, the neutral point when load is off may want to rotate the ball links on the end of the short bars sufficiently into the frame that you will not be able to get a drag link socket on the screws holding the transverse bars to the links. If that happens, to prevent the larger issue of not being able to move the links back to a working location I have found it helps to wire or tape a small wood block approx 4x4" inside the frame on each side as insurance the links will hit that first and can not swing into the frame so far the screws are unable to be accessed. Even though there might still be tension on the short bars if they hit the blocks there will be none on the transverse bars or compensator and things can still be removed.
Here is a paragraph from bulletin 55-T12 instructing mechanics how to unload the bars if the worm drive was not operational and another illustration showing the bolts that need to loosen.
Attach file:
(29.42 KB)
(58.08 KB)
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