Re: window channel felt

Posted by HH56 On 2019/6/14 9:00:22

You didn't mention a year and there are some differences in how the channel is held. Some Clippers have welded window frame assys which come out as a unit to access the retaining means and change the channel and others have the channel more supported by the door metal with minimal extra supports.

Restoration Specialtieshttp://www.restorationspecialties.com sells the channels and belt weatherstrip in long lengths that you cut and bend as needed. Usually buying like that is less expensive than the kits but you do the work so maybe it is a tradeoff. There are different sizes and edge treatments (beaded, non beaded, chrome or plain) so you need to order as close as possible to what is in your car. In addition to Max & Kanter, Steele Rubber may also still sell kits in precut lengths but the various kits may not contain the exact edge treatment as what is in your car and some of the channel is obsolete.

Steele also sells a mohair replacement cloth that you can check out in their universal products section. It can be glued in but it is fairly expensive per foot and typically applied on wider and flatter areas. I doubt the installation would be very easy or last very long in a narrow channel. Applying the adhesive, working the material smoothly down into the channel recess so the window edge didn't catch and then have it maintain a bond with the existing material which is already wearing off would be a challenge.

Typically the vent side of the channels are stiff and straight and have a few rivets holding them to a larger support piece which is bolted to the door. Rivets can be replaced with small flat head screws and nuts in many places but in others you are working in confined space and the fastening material needs to be very thin. Pop rivets can also be used but to do so requires some extra thinking to get the nose of the tool down inside the channel in order to squeeze and set the rivet tightly and not distort the channel in the process. My tool has a narrow nose which can get part way down and using a sleeve or a couple of stacked nuts to fill space between the tool and rivet head took care of the remaining. What is needed depends on the car but areas up around the vent window are where space gets tight and you may need to get creative. The other side channel containing the continuous curved and straight lengths is just a friction fit in the door or frame support spaces with maybe a single rivet or two at one end to keep the window from pushing it out of position.

Inner and outer weatherstrip belts are held either by staples or small push in clips that go thru the belting and into holes punched in the door metal. In some cases the clips can be reused but the clips do rust and if enough break upon removal or if you are dealing with staples you will need to resort to small flat head sheet metal screws. The exact clips Packard used are NLA although there are some used by other mfgs still available that can work with some extra effort. I found using the screws was just as easy as trying to make a different clip work.

When fastening the new channel or belts, whether it is with screws, rivets or whatever the important thing is make sure the heads of the fasteners are buried inside the felt and tar material so the window will not catch, scrape or rest against them. Using flat head fasteners will allow the tapered side to push the felt and tar material aside so the flat portion can nestle down below the area of felt the glass is touching.