Hi Howard. My next project is adding front disc brakes to my Pacific. The parts website is very concise and has a very clear Youtube install video.
Remove drum, add disc and connect flex line. There is no mention of changing the master cylinder or removing the residual pressure valve. Most posts mention this or are quite old. What am I missing? As always, you help is greatly appreciated.
parts:
https://www.wilwood.com/brakekits/brakekitlistfront?year=1950&make=packard&model=super+eight&mod
video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qB4FYNRRyC4 video transcript:
First you need to lift the front wheels off the ground.
Snap off the hub cap and remove the lug nuts.
Remove the dust cap, cotter pin, castle nut and spindle washer.
Carefully lift off the drum. Four bolts hold the internal drum assembly to the spindle. The lower two have cotter pins.
Remove the bolts and slide off the drum brake backing plate and internals.
Exposed spindle will need to be cleaned of any dirt, grease, burs or debris.
The new hardware comes with two specific bolts:
The shorter bolt with threads that go to the end, goes towards the front of the vehicle.
The longer bolt with an unthreaded tip goes towards the rear of the vehicle.
The washer and nut thread onto the inboard side of the spindle.
Torque it down to specification.
The top two bolts have the threads towards the outboard side of the spindle.
Install the spacers and apply BLUE Loctite to the threads.
Thread them into the bracket.
The bracket should mount up flush without any interference.
Now it's time to assemble your new Hub.
First install the wheel studs using RED Loctite.
Bolt the hat to the hub.
Bolt the rotor to the hat also using RED Loctite and torque it down in a crisscross pattern.
Refer to the supplemental instructions for all the proper torque settings.
Now it's time to get your bearings.
The supplied bearings need to be packed with disc brake grease.
Install the inner bearing and evenly tap the dust seal into place.
Dropping the smaller outer bearing in and your hub is complete.
This kit utilizes an indexing ring with a bevel.
The beveled edge slides on first and will face towards the vehicle.
Slide on the hub using your thumbs to prevent the outer bearing from dropping out.
Install the spindle washer and castle nut.
You want to work the bearing tension with the castle nut to the manufacturer spec.
Install the cotter pin and tap on the dust cap.
This kit comes with a wheel spacer for use with the stock wheels.
The wheel spacer provides a clamping surface between the steel wheel and the aluminum hub.
Apply teflon tape to the brake hose fitting and screw it into the caliper, the footing should end up up and parallel with the caliper.
Start assembling the caliper without using any thread lock.
This way you can make shim adjustments and properly align the caliper.
Start off trying two shims.
The caliper needs to be centered on the rotor and the outside edge of the rotor should align with the outside edge of the brake pads.
You can add or subtract the supplied shims to achieve proper alignment.
Once you have everything properly adjusted, go ahead and disassemble the caliper.
Apply blue Loctite to all the bolts and torque everything down to the settings outlined in the installation instructions.
Secure the pads with the supplied cotter pin and bend the pin to lock everything in place.
Disconnect the OEM rubber brake line by removing the clip and unbolting it from the connection.
Reconnect the new flex line quickly keeping fluid leakage to a minimum.
You should route the flex line on so it doesn't interfere with any of the moving parts such as suspension, steering or wheel components.
Before hitting the streets with your new disc brake upgrade carefully follow the brake bleeding and break in procedures included with your kit.
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