Re: Mike P 1955 400 Slow Resto Thread!

Posted by Packardfan On 2022/7/1 0:13:37
Hey guys thanks for all the feedback!

I have ordered a new sediment bowl set up from Kanter. The new one doesn't come with a ceramic bowl the guy said it has a paper filter. I still want a new bowl for my original. The guy from Kanter told me they sold just the bowl and seal in the past but didn't see it as a option anymore.

Heres the story with the carb throttle body. The last owner bought a rebuilt carb and bolted it on, the problem is the carb had been sitting for a long time so the accelerator pump was shot. The original carb was in pieces in the trunk. I took both carbs apart 100% everything came apart easily with the carb that was installed. So when I got to dissasembling the original carb that was in the trunk I didn't know they peen the throttle valve primary and secondary screws since the other carb was so easy to take them out, I broke 1 of the secondary valve screws off in the shaft. Since I want to use the original carb I took the secondary shaft and valves from the unoriginal carb and installed it on the original carb. Well it didn't work out as you can see with the gaps in the pics. I put the original secondary shaft and plates back in the original carb and wala no gaps. Now I need to drill out and tap the one screw I broke to 8-32×5/16 right? I am going to rebuild both carbs since all parts are there. Does anyone have any experience with the new style float needles?
I still have the original rubber tipped ones but didnt know how troublesome old needles are. What size are the original throttle valve/shaft screws? 6-32×5/16?


As far as the gas tank goes I was going to take it to a Reun
place but it would have cost $950!!!!! So then I was going to take it to a radiator shop and have them clean it out but that alone was going to cost $150. So then I got the great idea to try and remove the rust on the outside using electrolysis. See the attached pics. I let it sit 3 days 12-15 amps continous, looks good just can't get the black stuff off 100%,cant see it since it flash rusted so quick. Why do some parts of the tank rust quick and some parts not at all? Is the tank galvanized?I didnt have a node in the tank to draw the rust so there is still rusty stuff from about mid tank. I will just throw some chain/ rocks etc in there with water and shake it every day until the kit gets here. Thought I might as well try and make this tank work before shelling out $500+ dollars for a new tank.

Packarddon: Thank you for the offer.

HH55: Thank you for the info. I already have the whole manual printed out but I didn't have the extra 9 page training manual.

Ross: Thank you for checking I have dissasembled and need to try again.


Leedy: There is a pic attached of the metal part. Thanks for all the in info.

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