Re: Progress report
Posted by HH56 On 2012/1/15 11:00:40
Quote:
Keith and everyone who commented, thanks. Hard to see in that picture but no crimp marks on the terminals so they are soldered. Here is another picture showing how the insulators are removed and wires are soldered directly to terminals. If done carefully without runs of solder on the outside of terminals, the covers slide back on. Maybe overkill but more comfortable knowing they have a good solid connection and keeping the covers gives a bit of extra to hold during installation.
Other than bending a tab, the switch itself requires no changes but is not just drop in. Does require a slight bit of work to the mounting nut and shaft for the Packard bezel and knob-- but nothing outrageous needing more than a saw and file. I also went a slight bit extra in wiring because I wanted no changes to the stock Packard loom.
Instructions and parts are in the pdf file posted in the original thread.https://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/newbb/viewtopic.php?post_id=83907#forumpost83907 If you want them & can't download pdfs, I can convert to something else or email.
Thanks for the radius suggestion on the brake plate. Once it is proven satisfactory in function, was considering another try. Since it can mount as a unit after all & doesn't seem to need to be made in pieces for assembly in car, another version may be possible. Would still like to get the shaft nearer to original location and make sure it works with regular shift linkage cars.
Problem is unless something turns out to be a failure on this one, I probably won't be taking my car apart again to use as a test mule. Any little leverage changes needed I can make with provisions already there but doing complete assys with the seat and AC blower in place is another story. Was a project and contortion exercise just adding a torsion spring to the pedal as an afterthought. With no cars to play with closer than 50 miles, it may not happen.
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PackardV8 wrote:
Superb electrical work thru out. One exception: I am surprised that the Headlite switch is using the solderless terminals with teflon insulators still in place. I assume that was was just a pic during a Q&D mock-up???
Does the GM headlite switch fit the dash and Packard bezel with no modicications to the switch????
Keith and everyone who commented, thanks. Hard to see in that picture but no crimp marks on the terminals so they are soldered. Here is another picture showing how the insulators are removed and wires are soldered directly to terminals. If done carefully without runs of solder on the outside of terminals, the covers slide back on. Maybe overkill but more comfortable knowing they have a good solid connection and keeping the covers gives a bit of extra to hold during installation.
Other than bending a tab, the switch itself requires no changes but is not just drop in. Does require a slight bit of work to the mounting nut and shaft for the Packard bezel and knob-- but nothing outrageous needing more than a saw and file. I also went a slight bit extra in wiring because I wanted no changes to the stock Packard loom.
Instructions and parts are in the pdf file posted in the original thread.https://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/newbb/viewtopic.php?post_id=83907#forumpost83907 If you want them & can't download pdfs, I can convert to something else or email.
Thanks for the radius suggestion on the brake plate. Once it is proven satisfactory in function, was considering another try. Since it can mount as a unit after all & doesn't seem to need to be made in pieces for assembly in car, another version may be possible. Would still like to get the shaft nearer to original location and make sure it works with regular shift linkage cars.
Problem is unless something turns out to be a failure on this one, I probably won't be taking my car apart again to use as a test mule. Any little leverage changes needed I can make with provisions already there but doing complete assys with the seat and AC blower in place is another story. Was a project and contortion exercise just adding a torsion spring to the pedal as an afterthought. With no cars to play with closer than 50 miles, it may not happen.
Attach file:
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