Re: dome light repairs
Posted by HH56 On 2014/1/6 14:29:21
As to the round molding, if you mean the windlace, that is separate. On the first pillar photo I posted earlier with the center assy you can see those black strips on either side of the pillar. Those are compressed cardboard nailing or tack strips and the windlace is attached to those using a MULTITUDE of small carpet tacks. The panel lays over those on both sides and is separate.
On this 47 type switch, in the first photo the small dot has to show for switch to be ON. I think it may be the same switch on your car. As to orientation, I didn't see a definitive answer in any of the manuals. Don't think it matters although believe most of us in the US are used to having to push or lift the button or toggle up to be on.
You mentioned in your post (#2) that the light won't go out. If you have the same switch, I wouldn't be surprised if the switch has gotten hot and the plastic has melted and switch has shorted.
Not sure if you can see the details closely in the photos but look at the second and third photos. It shows the melting and the contact strip fused to the switch. The 4th photo shows just the normal contact "buttons". The surface is supposed to be flat so the small brass strip can move and make or break contact with both "buttons".
I don't think there is much hope for this switch so am going to get the type more like David shows or maybe a higher rated micro switch. Will see if I can do some adapting so this correct looking outer plastic housing and slide will work with it.
There were some of this same type switch on ebay a few days ago and they may still be there. It is not the first time I've seen this type melted so not going to waste money trying to duplicate the original.
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On this 47 type switch, in the first photo the small dot has to show for switch to be ON. I think it may be the same switch on your car. As to orientation, I didn't see a definitive answer in any of the manuals. Don't think it matters although believe most of us in the US are used to having to push or lift the button or toggle up to be on.
You mentioned in your post (#2) that the light won't go out. If you have the same switch, I wouldn't be surprised if the switch has gotten hot and the plastic has melted and switch has shorted.
Not sure if you can see the details closely in the photos but look at the second and third photos. It shows the melting and the contact strip fused to the switch. The 4th photo shows just the normal contact "buttons". The surface is supposed to be flat so the small brass strip can move and make or break contact with both "buttons".
I don't think there is much hope for this switch so am going to get the type more like David shows or maybe a higher rated micro switch. Will see if I can do some adapting so this correct looking outer plastic housing and slide will work with it.
There were some of this same type switch on ebay a few days ago and they may still be there. It is not the first time I've seen this type melted so not going to waste money trying to duplicate the original.
Attach file:
(20.46 KB)
(19.53 KB)
(33.04 KB)
(30.67 KB)
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