Re: keegan's Rhino bushings
Posted by HH56 On 2008/10/29 11:05:24
Hank, if you still have your old bushings, would appreciate if you would take a look at them and maybe can help us out.
Most of the holes in the body are approx 1" in diameter but the bolt is only 3/8. Some of the bushings are flat, others have the shoulder or step that fits into that hole. The only reason I can think of is to keep anything from shifting and for a layer of rubber to keep the bolt well away from the body for quietness. There was a combination used. Some had 2 bushings, one flat another with step used in pairs. Others just had a flat, others just the step. Some had a steel sleeve in the center to keep the bolt from being tightened too much and squashing the rubber bushing. Thickness used varied due to manufacturing tolerances and the bracket location. Some tolerances taken up by use of 1/16 shims.
If you still have your old bushings, if you could give us an idea of the thickness and the number of each, it would be a help. I had written all that down when taking mine apart, but info didn't get saved apparently. I still have most of my old molds so can give dimensions I used, but not the quantity of each. Don't plan on doing anything with the info other than writing it down but others may find it useful.
Here is a crude pict showing a partially squashed step. They were all about 1/8 high off the thickness of bushing.
PV8. As to using Flexane or Rhino, depends on who is doing. The specs appear very similar with Rhino being just a tad softer which I think is good. As Keegan pointed out, Rhino only available to those in the business so if you are going to try at home, Flexane just about the only option. The Flexane is also sold in l lb cans which is good because you can do small bunches but bad because can get expensive as you'll need 5-6 cans to do a complete car. Haven't checked recent prices but was around $20/can 10 yrs ago.
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Most of the holes in the body are approx 1" in diameter but the bolt is only 3/8. Some of the bushings are flat, others have the shoulder or step that fits into that hole. The only reason I can think of is to keep anything from shifting and for a layer of rubber to keep the bolt well away from the body for quietness. There was a combination used. Some had 2 bushings, one flat another with step used in pairs. Others just had a flat, others just the step. Some had a steel sleeve in the center to keep the bolt from being tightened too much and squashing the rubber bushing. Thickness used varied due to manufacturing tolerances and the bracket location. Some tolerances taken up by use of 1/16 shims.
If you still have your old bushings, if you could give us an idea of the thickness and the number of each, it would be a help. I had written all that down when taking mine apart, but info didn't get saved apparently. I still have most of my old molds so can give dimensions I used, but not the quantity of each. Don't plan on doing anything with the info other than writing it down but others may find it useful.
Here is a crude pict showing a partially squashed step. They were all about 1/8 high off the thickness of bushing.
PV8. As to using Flexane or Rhino, depends on who is doing. The specs appear very similar with Rhino being just a tad softer which I think is good. As Keegan pointed out, Rhino only available to those in the business so if you are going to try at home, Flexane just about the only option. The Flexane is also sold in l lb cans which is good because you can do small bunches but bad because can get expensive as you'll need 5-6 cans to do a complete car. Haven't checked recent prices but was around $20/can 10 yrs ago.
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