su8overdrive wrote:
Should be a hood prop on each side to facilitate working on engine. Make sure to lock the opposite side from the one you're opening or catastrophe.

On paint, be gentle. Tear the labels from 100% cotton terry cloth bath towels since they're polyester and will scratch paint. If you have water spots or other stains, go easy with the absolute minimal amount of cleaner, light polish by hand. Be careful or you'll wind up exposing primer. If you can't remove the blemishes you mention, just wax and rewax, rub everything 'til it gleams. Having an original car is priceless. Anyone can repaint a car. Go easy on the chrome. Nothing coarser than quadruple 0000 steel wool or copper wool if you can find it, perhaps Ace. Then keep it thoroughly waxed. Don't be cowed by "restored" cars. Most are of them are nightmares and never have that solid factory feel.

Check head and manifold torque engine warm with accurate torque wrench. Do not overdo. You want the manifold secure but able to expand and contract. Don't forget the manifold heat control valve. It should be free, the weight all the way up snug when engine cold. Try to work some graphite powder mixed with kerosene into both ends. Anything else will only burn off.

Drive car. Don't worry. See you have a set of radials. Good move.