Re: missing ignition switch?
Posted by HH56 On 2024/7/1 19:21:13
I would forget about having the generator working for now if you only want to test the engine. Just disconnect the wires from the field and arm terminals on the generator and for safety even though there should be nothing feeding them keep the wires from shorting to anything. After that, the bare minimum to start the engine is a jumper wire to the coil and for convenience, the bump or remote starter switch Kev suggested to energize the solenoid and starter. You can use another jumper wire for the starter but it is more of a pain to do so.
For the bare minimum wires needed, remove any wires now on the solenoid terminals except the cable from the battery. That should leave a heavy metal jumper connecting one terminal on the solenoid to the starter motor and the large battery cable. Run a short 16 ga jumper wire or a test clip lead from the solenoid battery terminal to the coil negative terminal. The coil positive terminal would go to the distributor terminal. Connect the bump switch to the solenoid battery terminal and one of the small terminals above it. Use a short 16ga jumper to ground the other small terminal on the solenoid. That will be enough to provide a spark and by pushing the bump switch button activate the starter. If the engine should start the only way to stop it will be to disconnect the battery or the jumper wire going to the coil.
There will be no gauges doing it this way so if you want those and the wires to senders are in good enough condition it will require another jumper wire connected to the BAT terminal on the solenoid. The other end of the wire will connect to the gauges on the back of the cluster. Before connecting that wire disconnect the existing wire feeding the buss bars and connect the jumper in its place. Make sure when you power the gauges none make any movements to the high end and stay there. If they do that would be an indication of a shorted sender wire and leaving it connected will damage the gauge.
Because the engine has sat for years the points are probably oxidized or in poor condition. Use a point file or some fine emery cloth to clean them before trying to start the engine. Don't use ordinary sandpaper as that can leave grit embedded in the points.
It looks like the safety circuit is still intact so on your test you basically shorted power to ground thru the generator. Here is a drawing of the safety circuit I did for another car. On your car ignore the wire numbers on the drawing. You need to disconnect the red wire I show connected to a small solenoid terminal and put a wire direct to ground in its place. Voltage applied to the other small solenoid terminal should energize the solenoid providing it is working.
Attach file:
226933_6683337e72eff.jpg (389.95 KB)
22-23 cluster rear.jpg (406.28 KB)
356 with Autolite solenoid and safety ground circuit.jpg (224.57 KB)
For the bare minimum wires needed, remove any wires now on the solenoid terminals except the cable from the battery. That should leave a heavy metal jumper connecting one terminal on the solenoid to the starter motor and the large battery cable. Run a short 16 ga jumper wire or a test clip lead from the solenoid battery terminal to the coil negative terminal. The coil positive terminal would go to the distributor terminal. Connect the bump switch to the solenoid battery terminal and one of the small terminals above it. Use a short 16ga jumper to ground the other small terminal on the solenoid. That will be enough to provide a spark and by pushing the bump switch button activate the starter. If the engine should start the only way to stop it will be to disconnect the battery or the jumper wire going to the coil.
There will be no gauges doing it this way so if you want those and the wires to senders are in good enough condition it will require another jumper wire connected to the BAT terminal on the solenoid. The other end of the wire will connect to the gauges on the back of the cluster. Before connecting that wire disconnect the existing wire feeding the buss bars and connect the jumper in its place. Make sure when you power the gauges none make any movements to the high end and stay there. If they do that would be an indication of a shorted sender wire and leaving it connected will damage the gauge.
Because the engine has sat for years the points are probably oxidized or in poor condition. Use a point file or some fine emery cloth to clean them before trying to start the engine. Don't use ordinary sandpaper as that can leave grit embedded in the points.
It looks like the safety circuit is still intact so on your test you basically shorted power to ground thru the generator. Here is a drawing of the safety circuit I did for another car. On your car ignore the wire numbers on the drawing. You need to disconnect the red wire I show connected to a small solenoid terminal and put a wire direct to ground in its place. Voltage applied to the other small solenoid terminal should energize the solenoid providing it is working.
Attach file:
226933_6683337e72eff.jpg (389.95 KB)
22-23 cluster rear.jpg (406.28 KB)
356 with Autolite solenoid and safety ground circuit.jpg (224.57 KB)
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