Re: missing ignition switch?
Posted by HH56 On 2024/7/2 13:01:13
Points or condenser are a good possibility. After a years long sit the points can oxidize or they can be burned if the key was on and engine sat unrunning with points closed for a period of time. To check the coil though pull the center high tension lead out of distributor cap and place the end near the block. Disconnect the wire at distributor coming from coil positive terminal and using some sort of insulator (don't hold the bare terminal or wire with your fingers) scratch it against the block and watch for a spark from the high tension wire jumping to the block. If you have a good ground and at least 5 1/2 volts at the coil coming from battery there should be a good spark. If that happens then time to check the points, condenser, rotor and spark plugs. Plugs could also be fouled which could result in no spark.
Whatever you do make sure the gas is fresh and not anything in the tank or lines. Even if it starts, a few minutes running on old stale gas can do a job on the valve stems.
One other thing that might be worth checking is the orientation of the distributor. I see the vacuum advance pointing toward the starter motor. Typically it points forward toward the oil fill pipe. As long as the plug wires are in the proper spots relative to the rotor position it should not be a big deal as long as the distributor body can rotate enough for timing but if someone put the dist in 180 out without having the wires and rotor correct the engine will never start.
Here is a bit of the wiring diagram showing the wires in the cap. The distributor rotates CCW and #1 plug wire should be at roughly the 7 o'clock position IF the oil pump was installed correctly. The distributor runs off the oil pump drive gear and can slide in two ways but if the drive gear is off a tooth or two the #1 plug wire may not land precisely where book says it should. Again not a big deal if off a small amount such as one hole as long as the wires are re-positioned accordingly. Instructions for the initial setting of the oil pump gear are starting around page 38 in the engine section of the 46-50 SM which you can download from the archive.
Attach file:
wires.jpg (133.90 KB)
Whatever you do make sure the gas is fresh and not anything in the tank or lines. Even if it starts, a few minutes running on old stale gas can do a job on the valve stems.
One other thing that might be worth checking is the orientation of the distributor. I see the vacuum advance pointing toward the starter motor. Typically it points forward toward the oil fill pipe. As long as the plug wires are in the proper spots relative to the rotor position it should not be a big deal as long as the distributor body can rotate enough for timing but if someone put the dist in 180 out without having the wires and rotor correct the engine will never start.
Here is a bit of the wiring diagram showing the wires in the cap. The distributor rotates CCW and #1 plug wire should be at roughly the 7 o'clock position IF the oil pump was installed correctly. The distributor runs off the oil pump drive gear and can slide in two ways but if the drive gear is off a tooth or two the #1 plug wire may not land precisely where book says it should. Again not a big deal if off a small amount such as one hole as long as the wires are re-positioned accordingly. Instructions for the initial setting of the oil pump gear are starting around page 38 in the engine section of the 46-50 SM which you can download from the archive.
Attach file:
wires.jpg (133.90 KB)
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