Magnumatic washer pump and heater valve
Posted by d c On 2014/11/16 11:19:12
Not sure to start this in general or V8 sec but since they were used in prior years-here we go. First Ill say thanks to those for posting the great info on the heater valve renew and the washer pump. The write ups are detailed and the pictures, instructions and formats very professional. These along with the parts ref and the service manual info are indispensable references. Upon examining the clipper pump and valve it seems these are totally original,untouched items as all else were upon disassembly and as such I have questions on a few specific detailes not covered and would like opinions from those with experience. If these seem to be nit picking or inconsequential details-feel free to relate that also.
Regarding the pump- It has what looks like a varnished card board or leather gasket/seal covering the entire inside surface of the cover secured under the plunger housing and wire locating bracket rivet which was not addressed in the write up and and the delicate nature of the brittle plastic valve and solenoid cover which to this point are undamaged and obviously unmarred and untouched lead me to prefer not to disassemble if it is not required. Are these items included in the rebuild kit? Is preserving originality important in this case? How well did these units work brand new? How well after a refirb? If a solenoid is ng prior to refirb efforts will be wasted time. I have disassembled the plunger bottom to clean and inspect the seals and spring, tested the fluid plunger seal and ck valve in the base, Ohmed the solenoid(6 ohm) and applied vacuum to the solenoid inlet while energizing the solenoid with a 9v batt and the plunger distends into the chamber and diverts vacuum into the vac plunger chamber. The weak link seems to be the check valve in the fluid discharge on the top of the cover. This does restrict the reverse flow but not totally seal like the pickup does. That and the spring corrosion on 2 areas seem to be the issues. I can flip the spring and put those coils to bottom over the plastic guide or buy the spring on your listing from McVeys. Anyone purchased thier spring? Is it stainless perhaps? I think I would prefer to change the spring and 1 ck valve and gently clean the shellac from the cover as it has a black matte finish which is virtually unscratched and seems original. The black cloth wire seems to have a shellac on it and is well preserved and the red wire may be preserved with a small heat shrink on its only chafed spot and hidden under the wire clamp. Can someone tell me apprx how fast the plunger is supposed to cycle in operation? What is the volume of fluid delivered under proper operation? Anyone drilled 2 holes in the cover under the clamp and cut the old wires to covertly terminate them there and run 2 new wires to a modern submersible pump hidden in the plunger case? (This would not be required if the refirbs work adequitly.) I know there are alot of questions but any insight on any or all topics is appreciated.
Attach file:
(104.14 KB)
Regarding the pump- It has what looks like a varnished card board or leather gasket/seal covering the entire inside surface of the cover secured under the plunger housing and wire locating bracket rivet which was not addressed in the write up and and the delicate nature of the brittle plastic valve and solenoid cover which to this point are undamaged and obviously unmarred and untouched lead me to prefer not to disassemble if it is not required. Are these items included in the rebuild kit? Is preserving originality important in this case? How well did these units work brand new? How well after a refirb? If a solenoid is ng prior to refirb efforts will be wasted time. I have disassembled the plunger bottom to clean and inspect the seals and spring, tested the fluid plunger seal and ck valve in the base, Ohmed the solenoid(6 ohm) and applied vacuum to the solenoid inlet while energizing the solenoid with a 9v batt and the plunger distends into the chamber and diverts vacuum into the vac plunger chamber. The weak link seems to be the check valve in the fluid discharge on the top of the cover. This does restrict the reverse flow but not totally seal like the pickup does. That and the spring corrosion on 2 areas seem to be the issues. I can flip the spring and put those coils to bottom over the plastic guide or buy the spring on your listing from McVeys. Anyone purchased thier spring? Is it stainless perhaps? I think I would prefer to change the spring and 1 ck valve and gently clean the shellac from the cover as it has a black matte finish which is virtually unscratched and seems original. The black cloth wire seems to have a shellac on it and is well preserved and the red wire may be preserved with a small heat shrink on its only chafed spot and hidden under the wire clamp. Can someone tell me apprx how fast the plunger is supposed to cycle in operation? What is the volume of fluid delivered under proper operation? Anyone drilled 2 holes in the cover under the clamp and cut the old wires to covertly terminate them there and run 2 new wires to a modern submersible pump hidden in the plunger case? (This would not be required if the refirbs work adequitly.) I know there are alot of questions but any insight on any or all topics is appreciated.
Attach file:
(104.14 KB)
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