Re: Remains of a 1937 prototype?
Posted by JKowFam On 2015/6/25 11:24:31
Hello,
I am happy to say that the straight 6 from the #1 C-115 has now landed in my garage and I've begun exploring some of its secrets.
A lot of the fasteners have cooperated surprisingly well. The worst part was the intake/exhaust assembly (which is obviously junk). The studs holding it to the block were skinny from corrosion and snapped. I'm wondering just how bad this news is for the block itself, or if that can be rectified. There was a large amount of former engine oil goo up in the valve train that I had to scoop out with a putty knife. Kind of surprised that the upper part was not bone dry, as the oil should have sunk down to the crankcase immediately after the last time it ran.
I had a couple other questions I can't resist asking you all:
--The head is frozen very tight, despite all the stud nuts coming off easily. What's the best way to get this to budge?
--The fuel pump, which appears to be a "dual action" based on my brief reading online, was still full of gas after 60 years. How were the four (4) brass connectors to the fuel pump set up, beyond just in-and-out?
--How does the oil pump/distributor shaft assembly come apart properly?
--Do I have any chance of removing the front balancer by myself?
--The bell housing studs are tough since they are tucked inside. I think I have to get the clutch out and the crank turning before I remove the flywheel. Any good tricks known for this?
Just curious. Thanks!
Attach file:
(49.49 KB)
I am happy to say that the straight 6 from the #1 C-115 has now landed in my garage and I've begun exploring some of its secrets.
A lot of the fasteners have cooperated surprisingly well. The worst part was the intake/exhaust assembly (which is obviously junk). The studs holding it to the block were skinny from corrosion and snapped. I'm wondering just how bad this news is for the block itself, or if that can be rectified. There was a large amount of former engine oil goo up in the valve train that I had to scoop out with a putty knife. Kind of surprised that the upper part was not bone dry, as the oil should have sunk down to the crankcase immediately after the last time it ran.
I had a couple other questions I can't resist asking you all:
--The head is frozen very tight, despite all the stud nuts coming off easily. What's the best way to get this to budge?
--The fuel pump, which appears to be a "dual action" based on my brief reading online, was still full of gas after 60 years. How were the four (4) brass connectors to the fuel pump set up, beyond just in-and-out?
--How does the oil pump/distributor shaft assembly come apart properly?
--Do I have any chance of removing the front balancer by myself?
--The bell housing studs are tough since they are tucked inside. I think I have to get the clutch out and the crank turning before I remove the flywheel. Any good tricks known for this?
Just curious. Thanks!
Attach file:
(49.49 KB)
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