Re: Head Gasket on 8 Cyl

Posted by fredkanter On 2016/10/16 13:14:41

If using bolts instead of studs were better Packard would have realized that during their 35+ yeas of using studs. Then threads that go into the block are different from the threads that the nuts go on as they are "water seal" threads needed to keep the water in the block from creeping up the threads. Bolts are not made with those threads and if there were bolts, after removing and replacing them numerous times over a cars life the threads would wear slightly and leak some water.

On the removal technique where it is recommended to put a wedge in between the two metal gasket layers. Often one or both metal layers are stuck to the head or block so by wedging in between them you have to "rip apart" the center compressible part of the gasket, no easy task. I have found that it's best to choose the upper or lower steel face and put a putty knife/ wide screwdriver etc to separate the head from the gasket, then it SHOULD!! come right off, if you're lucky it will almost float in the air HAH!.

When the nuts and washers are off, inspect each stud carefully to see if there is any rust/crud around the stud. This is from either leaking water or leaking combustion gasses. Soak each suspect stud with a good penetrant, let it sit, then put a nut on a few threads and sharply tap the nut sideways. This helps free the stud from the head. Then remove the studs and proceed as above following the article.

On some cars, especially with aluminum heads, I use a cam type stud puller after soaking and tapping the suspect ones as above. On a V 12 it took me a week to remove the heads.