Re: Repainting an early 1948

Posted by Fish'n Jim On 2023/7/31 15:28:11

I've seen the 22 & 23 paint charts either on TCP global/autocolor library or somewhere like that. Search the internet.
I might even have them copied, I'd have to look. Might even be on here in the paint reference tab? Who knows how close the chips are after this many years??? One used to be able to go to the "biggies" and look them up, but they clamped down on the archives about a decade ago. I tried to get access under my consultancy, but without a retail shop address they wouldn't grant.
Any time you're attempting to "match" existing old paint, it's an art. Do not pretend you can go to the parts store and get a qt/pt of the factory code color and expect it to match like a new paint might. You'll end up with a "zebra" or spotted gazelle. The gloss and other factors effect how it looks. They can shoot with the colorimeter and that might get close, but don't have much luck/confidence. Depends how much paint is left. AFter years of cleaing and waxing, erosion, its not as thick as factory.
The paint bases are different now and so are the pigments. Some of the solvents have been discontinued.
Best to do spray out panels and adjust pot til it's as close as one can get, but takes a mixing machine/computer. That's what a good shop will do. Make sure the old paint is flat and very clean and wipe off with precleaner. May also need a gun with solvent in it to blend the edges/pre-tack.
The trick is to not get too light or too dark than it is, as the eye can be deceived, but is attracted to defects. Best to cover whole panels or follow shadow lines than try to spot but I have successfully spotted - but mostly "new" paint, not the 70 year old vintages. Then you have to cut and buff the entire panels.
If this doesn't register you need to go see a paint shop.