Re: Remote Kill Switches

Posted by DavidPackard On 2023/10/14 23:13:21

Waynecain; there are ‘disconnect switches’ intended for this purpose that have threaded binding posts. What you need is a cable that has the specific polarity SAE terminal for the battery end, and then a terminal for the switch . . . likely a ring end. Follow that up with a second cable to go from the switch, again likely a ring end terminal, and then to the specific location on the engine where the original cable attached. That second cable will likely have a ring end at both ends. You’ll need to do some digging for a disconnect switch suitable for the current associated with a 6 volt system. Avoid any product that doesn’t state both the surge and continuous current capability of the switch. As a rule of thumb, modern cars of a few years back used 4 gauge battery cables, and I believe the 6 volt systems used something more like 1 gauge. A 1 gauge cable has twice the area (1/2 of the resistance per foot) of a 4 gauge cable. Typically the mounting bracketry will be locally fabricated.

I happen to disconnect the positive side on my Packard, but the decision of which cable to disconnect is up to you. My switch is purely mechanical, meaning it is activated by my hand, not a remote electrical switch, although after getting into the car ready to go, and then finding out I had not closed the cut-off switch is a bit frustrating. I have another 6 volt application that instead of a disconnect switch I remove the positive battery cable.

dp