Re: Keegan's Replacement Fuel Tank

Posted by HH56 On 2011/2/20 15:13:47

I have an old broken sender you can have but if you want one for electrical testing, then I don't have any good ones. PM me an address and will get if off Tues if you want a bad one for mockup purposes.

I wasn't suggesting cutting any holes in tank and was thinking any mods would be using the GM pickup or another similar to the one shown.

If the Packard sender couldn't be mounted in place of the GM sender on the pickup for some reason, then my thinking was along the lines of the sketches.

If there is enough room on the GM plate to clear the pickup, that suggestion is shown on the top sketch. Drill a couple of holes, remove the existing Packard plate and mount the sender to the GM plate at an angle & bend the arm as needed. That would be the easier option but only if enough room.

If no room on plate, then make a bracket to mount the entire unit inside the tank like the bottom sketch. Would be a piece of maybe 1/8 steel or such bent to shape welded or bolted to GM plate and with a couple of holes for sender to mount on that bracket instead of the Packard plate. I show it at the top but could probably go anywhere convenient.

Would need to figure the arm length and bend to the correct angle on all methods. Also probably would need to get some nylon or other insulating material and beef up that center spacing and support if any bracket or plate is thicker than the Packard one.

Any of those should still allow a replacement option. I don't know if the Ford replacements we have crossed to our sender disassemble the same as Packard does though. The Whitney unit does have a terminal and a similar mount but does need a mod or two. When I adapted one and wrote up the instructions on how I did it, removed the Packard sender from it's plate and modified so the Whitney sender could fit in it's place.

Was thinking one remote possibility might still be the GM sender. Since it has to come off anyway, would it be possible to reverse it and mount at an angle to get the proper resistance. We need roughly 80 empty, 10 full. The GM is O empty 90 full. If we could reverse that on the pickup, mount it so empty is around 10, then full should still be able to keep around 80 if the arm length or angle was compensated a tad for the range since travel would be slightly less on each end for those numbers.

Just a thought though and probably something wrong with the logic--suspect the extra 10 ohms would skew things although it would be interesting to see what would happen.