Electolytic Rust Removal
Posted by Keegan Chaput On 2008/2/29 15:42:05
My experience with electrolytic rust removal
Firstly, I am not a scientist, nor do I really understand the science of why this works. I understand the basic concept and that is what I was operating on when I first attempted this. I'm just sharing this method of rust removal as another means of restoring and maintaining the steel in our lives.
The biggest thing that drew me to this method is that it's not destructive in any way to the underlying part that you're trying to restore, and most importantly its extremely cheap and easy.
Ok, enough already, how does it work!
1. Get a PLASTIC container that is big enough to contain your part with ample room around the part.
2. Get some scrap STEEL/IRON that will also fit in the container without touching the part to be cleaned.
3. Get out your BATTERY CHARGER.
4. Get some SODIUM CARBONATE. I used Arm & Hammer Laundry powder. I've also read that baking soda will work, but I never tried it.
Ok, I found that it works best to clean the part beforehand. Use a wire brush or whatever to get the loose rust and junk off of the part. Then use some degreaser to clean off grime and grease as best that you can.
<a href="http://s187.photobucket.com/albums/x215/keeganchaput/?action=view?t=RustBefore.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i187.photobucket.com/albums/x215/keeganchaput/RustBefore.jpg" border="0" alt="Before"></a>
Now fill your plastic tub with regular water and mix in about 1 ounce of laundry powder per gallon of water. (I don't like measuring things so I just put in a heaping scoop and it worked just fine.) I found that the powder dissolves faster if you use hot water. We're making an electrolyte for the current to pass through.
<a href="http://s187.photobucket.com/albums/x215/keeganchaput/?action=view?t=Electrolyte.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i187.photobucket.com/albums/x215/keeganchaput/Electrolyte.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
Next, submerge your part in the electrolyte and connect the NEGATIVE LEAD from the battery charger to it. Don't worry about the lead if it's submerged, it will be ok. (do I have to remind you that the charger is still unplugged at this time?) Now your piece of scrap steel goes in. I learned that the bigger your scrap steel is, the better. It's best if a part of the scrap steel sticks out of the electrolyte so you can connect your POSITIVE LEAD to it. If the positive lead is in the electrolyte it will be damaged eventually.
<a href="http://s187.photobucket.com/albums/x215/keeganchaput/?action=view?t=Anode.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i187.photobucket.com/albums/x215/keeganchaput/Anode.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
I welded these scrap pieces together to surround the part.
<a href="http://s187.photobucket.com/albums/x215/keeganchaput/?action=view?t=Connected.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i187.photobucket.com/albums/x215/keeganchaput/Connected.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
Now, after you're sure the two pieces aren't touching each other, set the charger to it's lowest setting and plug it in.
You should see tiny bubbles start to form on the piece to be cleaned. It's worth noting that the tiny bubbles are water molecules breaking into their basic components. Oxygen (harmless) and Hydrogen (not as harmless). Regardless, don't do this in a tiny closet or small enclosed space. In the worst case scenario, you could have a buildup of explosive gasses. In a garage or similar space, I see no danger in this process and feel it is perfectly safe. But having said that, I take no responsibility for anyone's bonehead moves. Do your own research and decide if you want to try this.
This process is pretty slow; you may have to leave the part for a couple of days. I took the part out and cleaned it off every 12 hours or so, but I don't know if it helped at all. At least I felt involved.
<a href="http://s187.photobucket.com/albums/x215/keeganchaput/?action=view?t=after.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i187.photobucket.com/albums/x215/keeganchaput/after.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
When you take it out you'll find most of the rust has turned black. You can clean that black stuff off pretty easily with a scrub brush and some detergent. The longer you leave the piece in the bath, the easier it seems to clean-up. You can leave it in the electrolyte for as long as you want as long as the current is still flowing. It won't damage the good steel on the part and the current will prevent any further corrosion.
Once out of the electrolyte you'll have to act pretty fast because the part is going to want to flash rust pretty quickly (within minutes depending on the relative humidity). I cleaned it off with some water and a brush and then immediately sprayed it with some WD-40.
You can continue to use your electrolyte forever, but it will get pretty nasty with rust and crud. It's just water, laundry soap and some rust so it's safe to pour out anywhere. No nasty chemicals or solvents to worry about.
That's all there is to it.
Here are some links that I read before attempting this. They have a better grasp on the science than I do, and can also shed some additional light on safety procedures and tips on more successful results.http://myweb.tiscali.co.uk/andyspatch/rust.htmhttp://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/rust/electrolytic_derusting.htmhttp://www3.telus.net/public/aschoepp/electrolyticrust.html
Good Luck!
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