mDon, Here's a photo of the stainless tube I installed in the '41. It took the place of a rusted out mild steel Packard part, but you could paint it and nobody would be any the wiser. Note, the curve in the stainless tube isn't quite the same as the Packard tube, it's close but I used what I could get!


EDIT - I'm pretty sure that either Max or Kanters or both can suppply a kit with all the parts required, hoses, clamps and tube.

I know the radiator hose certainly isn’t correct. Would you be able to provide pictures of what I should have? It’s a process…little bit a time!

Clear coat them.


Looks good.


I plan on using gold leaf from. Hobby store. Not a paint.

Don, I notice in one of your photos that you have what appears to be a corrugated flexible lower radiator hose.




Unless that hose contains a wire stiffening coil I'd be worried the hose could collapse from the suction effect of your waterpump, especially since you've now repaired it. All the pre-war Packards I've seen have a length of slightly curved steel tubing between two small sections of radiator hose to prevent that from happening. When I replaced the rusted mild steel original tube in my '41 120 I sourced a section of stainless steel tubing, courtesy of an offcut from the local muffler shop.

If it's not broke don't fix it.................but sometimes if things are not correct they should be corrected. I would be inclined to correct this as it seems that with the correct parts/tools this would be a rather simple project, and it would put my mind at ease. Actually what I would really do is whatever Ross says to do!

I finally decided to bite the bullet and try repacking my water pump. I got it done and definitely learned some tricks along the way.

I started with the packing nut pretty well bottomed out.





This is where it ended up after adding four strands of 1/8 in graphite packing. The shaft was in good shape and I now have a lot of room to tighten if needed. I am very appreciative to the suggestion by others on this site to slip a piece of heavy cardboard between the fan and radiator before I started. That undoubtedly prevented some damage.




I found that cutting the head off a bolt to use as as guide stud when reinstalling the fan was a HUGE help.

While I had the coolant drained, I also added a new heater tube and a support strap tied into the air cleaner support. I also replaced my heater shutoff valve. I took the old one apart to look at it closer and found it was pretty well shot. The new valve has handle which will be much easier to use as well.









After doing this, I now won’t have any worries about replacing the water pump if/when it ever needs it down the road. I do have a benefit of a new front motor mount, so I can get to all the bolts without having to jack up the engine.

Just for grins, I decided to clean up the old shutoff valve.




As you can see, the bolt is totally shot and won’t seal up no matter what.

39 survivor car 15 grand

https://www.facebook.com/share/yBxdZ8tFq4QzUwn1/?mibextid=kL3p88

We all know Ross's advice is gold but this time literally. I redid the scripts on my car. The steps are:
- clean with a wire wheel
- clean what you missed, with steel wool (doesn't have to be perfect but just get the rough corrosion off)
- clean with brake cleaner and a rag
- apply Duplicolor Gold automotive rattle can paint. Sweep the can back and forth to apply several very light passes in one go. Repeat from all 4 directions.

It's not a concours level look but it's very nice overall and the paint is surprisingly durable. Best part is a whole car costs just a $13 can. Whereas replated scripts from vendors are nearly a cool $100 each. The replated ones do have a mirror shine but unless your local car cruise has a pile of Packards it's not like anyone will be able to tell or care. (Photo attached for reference.)

Attach file:

---

  20240418_210835.jpg (3,605.75 KB)


  20240418_192048.jpg (6,197.31 KB)


  Screenshot_20240418_211824.jpg (614.88 KB)


  20240418_210847.jpg (2,420.58 KB)

I like to use a dial indicator with a magnetic base. I stick the base to the axle and let the probe push against the backing plate. Push the axle in, then pull it outwards and read the difference. Or push the axle in and then clamp some bent up piece of steel to the axle with a vice grip or clamp. Clamp the steel so it is just touching the backing plate, then pull the axle outwards and measure the gap with feeler gages.

Awesome. Thanks, guys. Can confirm, nothing seemed particularly unusual from the rear end prior to disassembly. Was smooth and quiet.

In checking for end play, what is the best way to do this absent the gauge mention in the manual?