Yeah I actually do. I have a 55 Rochester in pretty awful condition but the top casting is in good shape, so I'd be willing to sell it separately. Just needs cleaned.

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Google Ralph the Radio guy. He is the one that did the conversion on my radio. AM/FM/Bluetooth all controlled with the stock radio controls. Even the wonder bar and mechanical presets work.

On the 37' it has no radio, nor do I want all the firewall hanging components that suck up leg room.

So I found a setup that is used on ATVs, boats, etc. It a small module about the size of a pack of cards that is a Bluetooth receiver and amplifier. It also came with two 4" speakers that are each enclosed in their own water proof housings.

I was able to mount everything up under the dash where nothing is seen. The speakers face downward and are plenty loud even when driving with top down at speed.

Music is all streamed over Bluetooth from your smart phone, and also controls the volume. It was only about $50.

It's a great (12v) option for those without or with dead radios.

For reference, I had suggested to bend new rods from stainless steel brake line, buy 2 springs, and stick a washer on each then flare the end by cutting some slots with a dremel then bending down with pliers after the HW was installed.

Obviously a spare set would be nicer but they are normally not detached from the clamp mounts. The correct way to take the visors off is to just pull and twist straight off.

I would message Parker at Parker's Packards. He would know.

From talking to him a block on its own is next to worthless. Not so much a question of price as much as that no one would really want one.

The half built one may have some value but why these engines are so expensive is the machine shop costs, expertise, and time that it takes to rebuild one. The parts alone aren't too interesting unless you happen to have something rare.

For the 327/359 engines I can confirm Howard's dimensions, 0.517" x 1.173", give or take a thousandth or so. It's just a simple cylinder, easier than turning to 0.517 is to just make to length from 33/64 drill rod.

Hello Packard People, I am new to this forum and am looking to sell / get pricing information. I have two , maybe three original Packard 12 engine blocks. One of them a 1937 has the entire engine and the other one a 1938? may just be the block. I have not had much luck locating other ones for sale and am hoping I can get some accurate and fair pricing information as i would like to sell them as well as a few other misc random parts. I am going to attach some pictures and i would greatly appreciate members opinions on what a fair price would be for these parts as well as any reasonable offers. thanks!

Link doesn't work for me.....get a '403 Forbidden' notice.

My 1951 Henney-Packard also has tubeless light truck tires and no problem but spokes are prone to leaking when steel wheels are not.

I had similar thoughts but didn’t know if others had this issue and the solution. I have Coker’s on the 48 and I can’t recall why, but the guy who mounted them for me put tubes in. They didn’t agree with each other so I removed them and no problems. So I may be hunting for a solution when I get there. BTW, car now pushes much easier. I can now do it myself in and out of the garage….oh boy. Nothing like little victories

I was wondering if anyone would have the hardware for the sun visors for a 56 packard caribbean convertible? It appears they are different than your typical hard top sun visor.

My dad got the sun visors reupholstered way back when and I would like to install them again. First issue was he removed the rods from the car and I couldnt find them for a couple years until this past weekend when I cleaned out the trunk. However, they are damaged... if someone has a spare set that would be awesome and would alleviate trying to fix them.

but, would anyone have any good pictures of how the rods attach to the top latch mounts? I believe there are springs, washers and some fastener involved. Depending what it looks like I may be able to add some 2 part epoxy or weld on additional metal rods.

Below is a picture of the ends of my rods

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