On the scripts show above, should the open letters be left as they are which is textured chrome or are they to be painted? I painted, would they be black or body color?

Quote:

Any poor B that buys any of my cars knows they are fully custom built & nothing is original or standard.
I'm in Australia . Everyone here knows what a Holden water pump is & I'm sure they will be happier to pay $45 at any corner auto store than import a repro pump.

The Packard engine I'm fixing up is going into a '29 Chrysler frame with a custom built speedster body . Its stupid to bore a good STD block out to 60 over to get what , another 5 cubes , yeah thats going to make a difference, not. Now if anyone wants to rebuilt it needs to be sleeved. I prefer 288 over 327 , slower piston speed wins for me.

Well, I sent an email to runningboardrubber.com along with some photos. This time I received a very quick response. I’ll be talking to them more tomorrow.

A lot of times the anonymous is likely situations where people are like me, simply not logged on, until or unless we want to comment. Sometimes my browser or the site timed me out (not a big deal) and I just don't bother logging back in unless necessary. That said, if there was a need to pay I would not be opposed but it would be nice to still have a "free" forum. I mainly say that b/c my experience with the forum, pre-purchasing of a Packard, was a huge influence in my comfort to make the leap. Nothing against other car makes or forums, but a lot of others I came across were more rod oriented, not for noobs like me, etc.

Me and my Friend Tried to test and Fix my Packard's leveling motor and it burns fuses all the time and the thing is not the motor it self but the levelizer what the motor tries to turn is locked harder than Fort Knox so I was wondering is it anyway possible to pry it free without taking it out from the car and I accidentally broke wires of that sensor what goes in the motor what has 2 wires so do I need to try to fix that too with some stupid srews or can I get a new one somewhere It I broke the wires because I try to find spot where i can turn it with srews driver but it didn´t really helped reason for that was a stupid ideas because We tried to get it working in garage whole night from 11pm to 8:30 sorry if writing is not easy to read because I haven´t sleep in like 40+ hours now

I would be curious how that would affect ad revenue. For example, there are 30x the anonymous users as registered users on right now, but are they looking at a greater or lesser proportion of pages?

I'll make some changes tomorrow when I am back in my office. Perhaps I'll see if I can make it so Ads are only displayed to Anonymous users.

It is difficult to get oil onto the shaft on those wiper bases because of the cup shape of the drive knob. If I don't want to take the base off, I drill a very small hole right next to and parallel to the shaft and then flow in light weight oil while turning the knob back and forth. On the 55-56 wiper bases the rear shaft bushing can be oiled by letting oil run down the back of the housing while pulling the knob in and out.

If you decide to remove the bases for service, just drop the whole unit in a pan of light oil and then work it back and forth til it is free. This is your best course as you can take the tensioners off also and do the same thing with them. Then you are good for another 69 years.

I had 25 of these made back in the 1970s still have a few left. I've been regularly disappointed when the folks I've loaned these to fail to return them, but if you PM me with your postal address I'll try one more time. I'll provide the gauge plug, you'll have to provide your own feeler gauges.