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Re: Vacation Car - 56 Patrician
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HH56
BigKev is correct. H means high range and was the Ultramatic range used for most years. It did skip being used in the late 54 Gear Start Ultramatic and 55 Twin Ultra but resumed again in the 56 TU. In the 54 GS Ultra there was a D and a dot or in 55, D with triangles on either side to denote the two drive positions.

For the 56 Twin Ultramatic they eliminated use of dots or triangles so selecting H means the trans works exactly as the older 49 thru mid 54 models. It starts and stays in high range for all speeds with only the direct drive clutch coming in at the point speed and the throttle position dictates.

For 56, D or drive is the automatic shifting range. This dual function of original operation or the new shifting action is the reason for a name of Gear Start in 54 or Twin Ultramatic in 55-6. In this range the transmission starts in low gear, automatically shifts into high range and then into direct drive. This is all controlled by speed and throttle position and unlike the original models, no action is needed by the driver to manually make the shifts.

L still means low range and trans starts and stays in low with only the direct drive clutch coming in, again determined mostly by throttle position.

Posted on: 2023/10/12 10:46
Howard
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Re: Vacation Car - 56 Patrician
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BigKev
Overdrive is only applicable to manual transmission on Packards.

If you car has an Ultramatic, no overdrive.

The "H" just means High Range. I believe it took the place of "D" on prior years.

Posted on: 2023/10/12 10:04
-BigKev


1954 Packard Clipper Deluxe Touring Sedan -> Registry | Project Blog

1937 Packard 115-C Convertible Coupe -> Registry | Project Blog
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Re: Vacation Car - 56 Patrician
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Marvin
Please excuse my ignorance. You mention overdrive, I have not yet had the pleasure of driving my 56 Patrician, but hopefully soon. I am assuming the H button on the push button selector is overdrive. If this is correct, do you push it at a stop position or while driving? And your dash pad looks great. Mine not so much. Is it original or a replacement?

Posted on: 2023/10/12 9:49
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Re: Parts for Sale -- 1957 & 1958 Packards, and Lots of Studebakers
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Chester Sams
I am looking for the trunk knock off on a 58 Packard hawk.

Any leads would be greatly appreciated

Attach file:



jpg  knockoff.jpg (211.81 KB)
141256_6527fdcf9640a.jpg 1446X1920 px

Posted on: 2023/10/12 9:08
S&S Gas Works Garage LLC,Chester
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Re: Vacation Car - 56 Patrician
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CarFreak
Quote:

HH56 wrote:
Which yellow wire are you referring to as not having power? If it is the one on the ballast resistor terminal where the orange wire from OD relay connects, that should have power whenever the key is in the right or run position. The wire is fed directly from the IGN terminal of the ign switch via a splice connection. One spliced wire goes to the resistor and the other spliced in wire to the fuse block for the instrument cluster and maybe a couple of other items.

If it is the yellow wire that went to the old relay TH SW terminal, that would be ground side with ground supplied thru the governor when car reaches speed. If the inline connectors are good that only leaves the kickdown sw and the governor itself as the issue.

In testing the yellow ground wire side, you should be able to put one voltmeter lead on ground, and use the other lead to check each side of every terminal and connector in the yellow wire string. As long as the governor contact is not closed and connected to ground and voltage from the orange wire is feeding thru the relay coil, voltage should be able to be measured at every connection point down to the governor. As soon as the governor supplies a ground thru its contacts then the voltage in the string will go away and relay would energize. If there is voltage on one side of something but not the other that item is the problem.

On the governor itself, make sure all the mounting screws are tight. One of those that holds the plastic bottom to the body must be making good contact with the metal strap on the plastic bottom. That screw and strap is what supplies ground to the contacts.


thank you for that. I will go through all the connections and make sure they are tight.

I did take the car out again last night for a 50 mile run. Basically the route I would take to work to see how the car would handle it in non rush hour traffic. it did do well! During this run I was on a straight away long enough in a tunnel to watch the tach, and it does appear that the car does go into over drive! I probably need to drive it more in day light to visually see the rpms but I was able to hit about 70 mph while the engine was turning 2,000 rpm. The trans did start to make a groawning noise at some points but as I increased speed it went away. I have a sneaking suspicion that it happens when I am in over drive and the engine rpms are too low. Ill just have to drive it more and find out.

Posted on: 2023/10/12 8:45
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Re: WANTED: 1937 115/120 Right (Passenger) Rear Fender
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Webmaster

BigKev
*BUMP*

None found at Hershey, so still looking for a 1937 Junior Right Rear fender

Posted on: 2023/10/12 7:44
-BigKev


1954 Packard Clipper Deluxe Touring Sedan -> Registry | Project Blog

1937 Packard 115-C Convertible Coupe -> Registry | Project Blog
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Re: Ultramatic Disassembly
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Ross
I've never seen one of the band tabs broken. Congratulations on finding a new failure mode.

The silvery paste is actually babbit. The bushing in the ring gear WAS babbit lined, as was the inner bushing of the rear pump.

Betcha every trace of that is gone and the fit of the ring gear on the pump nose will be horrible. On rebuilds I drill an extra oil feed for that one.

Posted on: 2023/10/12 7:03
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Re: 56 Ultramatic
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Ross
On 56 trans I shim the A spring 1/8" to raise the direct shift point somewhat. I just drop a #10 nut in the bottom of the #3 valve before inserting the spring. I trim the B spring about 3/16 to lower the low-high shift point somewhat. I find that shift pattern much more agreeable.

On 55s and gear starts I merely shim the A spring 1/8" as their low-high shift comes soon enough.

If you increase the tension on the A spring too much the direct shift will come way too late or not at all.

Posted on: 2023/10/12 6:54
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Re: NO REVERSE!!!
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Ross
Yes, the first things I would check is that the set screw that hold the motor to the shift shaft is still tight (reached through the little cover with two screws on the bottom).

The second, and even more likely cause is the set screw that holds the control valve lever to the shaft on the inside of the trans. Drop the pan, tighten it up, and then drill through the lever and the shaft and install a roll pin to prevent re occurrence.

Posted on: 2023/10/12 6:41
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Re: NO REVERSE!!!
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humanpotatohybrid
Forgive me as I'm not too familiar with the push buttons. But there's essentially 3 possible failure points:

- Maybe the actuator is either not reaching R or overshooting R.

- Maybe the actuator goes to the right place electrically, but there is misalignment between the actuator and lever. Or something is loose in that area.

- Sometimes the set screw holding the linkage on the inside loosens up and causes all kinds of annoyances. I actually just made a video on this just the other day.
https://youtube.com/shorts/8VWbsWP6gmA?si=QEPHdjAUHoRN6r6W

The system in your car was rebuilt some years ago (I believe the electric part only) so I would expect/hope it is one of the latter two bullets as those are pretty easy to fix. You just have to be able to lift the car. That being said, I would start by checking the first bullet by doing the "electrical tests" section on p. 118 of the 55-56 Ultramatic manual. You only need a test light or voltmeter and don't need to lift the car.

Posted on: 2023/10/12 5:57
'55 400. Needs aesthetic parts put back on, and electrical system sorted.
'55 Clipper Deluxe. Engine is stuck-ish.
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