Is there enough room for a crowfoot wrench?

Attach file:

---

  crowfoot.jpg (13.30 KB)

As a follow-up I found the orig oil pressure sending unit, so I proceeded to clean it up and used my meter to test the ohms and it does read 70 ohms. So I believe it is good. I'll reinstall and hope for the best. Any body have any tips on how to tighten it with out distorting the sender?

Sneaky bastages!!!

None of the Patrician carriers will fit the 356 rear axle.

1951-52 are smaller diameter and 1953-55 look like the same diameter but have a different bolt pattern

O_D's switch description of his pushbutton is still a SPDT switch but just in a different format. The spring keeps the switch always in the regular position but still with common connected to the gauge. Always down in the regular position connecting to the fuel sender would be one throw but pushing the button opens that contact and connects common to the other terminal going to the oil sender for the other throw. The PB works the same as a typical microswitch with a common and a normally open and normally closed terminal.

The adjustment nut is on mine is 1-15/16 across flats.

The gas/oil gauge switch in my 1934 Eight is different from HH's description. Mine which I'm certain is original to the car is a dead-man or momentary contact type switch. It normally reads from the gas tank sender and to read the oil level from the crankcase sender you press the switch button up against spring pressure and hold it for as long as you want the oil level displayed. Relax your finger pressure and it reverts to reading the fuel level.

There is a SPDT toggle switch under the dash in near proximity, it switches between the instrument lights and the map light.

Which yellow wire are you referring to as not having power? If it is the one on the ballast resistor terminal where the orange wire from OD relay connects, that should have power whenever the key is in the right or run position. The wire is fed directly from the IGN terminal of the ign switch via a splice connection. One spliced wire goes to the resistor and the other spliced in wire to the fuse block for the instrument cluster and maybe a couple of other items.

If it is the yellow wire that went to the old relay TH SW terminal, that would be ground side with ground supplied thru the governor when car reaches speed. If the inline connectors are good that only leaves the kickdown sw and the governor itself as the issue.

In testing the yellow ground wire side, you should be able to put one voltmeter lead on ground, and use the other lead to check each side of every terminal and connector in the yellow wire string. As long as the governor contact is not closed and connected to ground and voltage from the orange wire is feeding thru the relay coil, voltage should be able to be measured at every connection point down to the governor. As soon as the governor supplies a ground thru its contacts then the voltage in the string will go away and relay would energize. If there is voltage on one side of something but not the other that item is the problem.

On the governor itself, make sure all the mounting screws are tight. One of those that holds the plastic bottom to the body must be making good contact with the metal strap on the plastic bottom. That screw and strap is what supplies ground to the contacts.

So last night after work I was able to get the relay in. I am still not getting power at the yellow wire, anytime I put the test light on it, now the solenoid clicks when I do so. Which I guess is the same as grounding the wire at the governor which according to the FSM says the solenoid should click.

I also did some adjustment to the clutch and shifter and tried to rotate the passenger mirror a little bit more so I could actually see out of it. Still not working to well. I may just cut some of the plastic bushing so I can rotate the mirror head more.

I wanted to get all of this done so I could take the car to downtown Pittsburgh to pick up the wife from the train station. The pick up went well, but I tried the O/D and I'm still not convinced it is working. The electrical stuff worked before I left and it appears that there is no change in engine rpm when the cable is pushed in or pulled out. I converted the clock into a tachometer and it appears at 50 mph I am still turning 2,000 rpms.

Now, sometimes last night if I was coasting in gear and I rolled onto the gas I could hear the engine increase in rpm and not actually accelerate. It eventually would "grab" and start to accelerate. I did not have this issue happen when the cable was pulled out.

I kind of figured there would be a big "ca-thunk" when it would go into over drive once you took your foot off the gas above 40 mph, am I mistaken? Over drive is .722 to 1 so I figured I would see some difference in RPM's, unless my tach is not that accurate. I think I heard some "clicking" happening when I would get below 30 mph like it was telling it to come out of over drive, but again, I didnt notice difference. Is it really that smooth? or do I have a solenoid or mechanical issue? or is the torque curve of this engine that great that it just doesnt care about the gear difference?

Attach file:

---

  IMG_2152.jpg (189.31 KB)


  IMG_2498.jpg (379.59 KB)

Your best bet is to set up an eBay account that will tell you as soon as one has been listed. The AACA forum had one listed a year ago but no idea if it’s still available.