That's what I figured. Just wanted to make sure I was not doing some accidental metallurgy on anything of significance. Actually I have already been hammering away a bit with a dead blow; I might try to blast the rust off with a steel wire wheel before trying again.

As we all know, it's easier to ask for help before the fact than to deal with the consequences of your own ignorance after the fact. Not that I have ever been in that situation though.

Brake lights were not working, bulbs are good, replaced brake switch and still not working. But when I run jump across terminals brake lights come on.

Marty: You can adjust the steering gear on your car by tightening the thrust bearing nut. The manual only shows the 646 but the 901 has a pinch bolt that you must loosen first. Take care when tightening the nut as too much adjustment will cause stiff movement. I also had to tighten the the sector shaft nut which is hard to get to. I used a 16in. adjustable wrench to get to it. You can also tighten up the steering tubes. At each end there is a cotter and large adjustment screw. Use a large straight blade screwdriver to turn it in some and replace the cotter with the cotter going in the screw slot to keep it from backing out. Also I use StaLube 140 gear oil in the steering box, trans, and differential. The manual calls for Witmers No 52 which I understand to be 160 wt. gear oil which is no longer available so the 140 seems to be OK. It is good for yellow metals which our cars contain in many places. You can PM me if you need to talk as there are many things we have in common with these cars.

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Essentially a single pole double throw switch. The common is connected to the fuel gauge which does dual purpose.

With the switch in the regular position, the fuel tank sender is connected and gauge reads fuel level. Move the switch to the other position, the fuel sender is disconnected and a second sender unit in the crankcase that senses the oil level is connected so the gauge reads oil level.

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there is 2 wires on my 1948 on the side of the carb a small ball baring is inside when the igntion switch is turned on the ball baring compleats the curcuit to the starter solenoid

I have a 1934 1101-718 and would like to know how the switch a 2 way for oil and gas operates

Well, rust expands the volume of steel by a factor of 9. You will have to do what we refer to here as the "Michael Jackson":

Just beat it.

Quote:

Guscha, I sure will if I do plan to make it there next year.

Parts store

https://youtu.be/X8Jjfeo9KPk?si=7rR4ESr-h0lTQanL

Anyone been here?

https://youtu.be/X8Jjfeo9KPk?si=7rR4ESr-h0lTQanL