I completed install of the Edmunds Finned Head last weekend and ran it... a short time to get things heated up enough and then re-torqued. So far...smooth as silk and all cylinder's firing. This weekend I expect to wrap up my cooling system and drive it.
I have had to fabricate/modify my Electromatic Clutch bracket assembly.

I completed install of the Edmunds Finned Head last weekend and ran it... a short time to get things heated up enough and then re-torqued. So far...smooth as silk and all cylinder's firing. This weekend I expect to wrap up my cooling system and drive it.
I have had to fabricate/modify my Electromatic Clutch bracket assembly.

Matt, I answered your e mail .I did not know 1934 is unique. As I said when I get back to you with pictures and measurements BOB

I have actually thought about this on my Clipper because it's so worn looking, how when I repair things it can't look too nice. For example, imagine removing your radio to repair it but not cleaning or polishing anything on it while it's out. Exactly what I'm doing LOL.

Then on my 400 it's the opposite, like Kevin here I am removing things to polish them because no one did it in the past 70 years; the paint and trim is quite nice so the brightwork needs to match.

Such is the life of a dedicated old car person. It starts with the items you mentioned and then it goes something like "that new such and such looks so good but now the item next to it that used to look in really good shape now looks like crap so it needs to be done". From there it goes "if that is done it makes something else --- etc, etc, etc" and it doesn't end until the car is completely redone or the significant other has put the foot down because the wallet was empty, budget was blown, and you were caught thinking out loud how to mortgage the firstborn.

Thanks Bob, I’ll send you a Dm and then I’ll call you as I’m in Australia. Thanks

Mission creep. I'm finding it hard to keep the list of projects from slowly exploding. With the dash out, I can clearly see all the wiring and I think "why not replace the whole wiring harness while I'm in here?". Then I look at the windlace I need to install and think "why not paint the door jambs to match the body color while I'm in here?". Then I think "why not just go ahead and paint the whole car the correct Ivory Blue?". Spiraling out of control.

I'm trying to keep myself in check. Currently working through everything I've removed and am prepping things for paint. Still need to get a bunch of supplies.

-Kevin

I don't have a convertible, but if I ever do then I will take this information to heart. Thanks for providing it Leeedy.

-Kevin

I have a few sets, rebuilt and work great 520-336-0057 Tucson Packard

Quote:



For years I was part owner of an automotive trim shop and we repaired and replaced thousands of convertible tops. I knew most of the major players in the convertible business. This included the OEM level of the car business where I helped develop new convertibles and tops.

If you are a member of The Packard Club, check back in old Cormorant News Bulletins and see the full procedure with illustrations I wrote. I also wrote a similar procedure for Classic Auto Restorer magazine back in 1995.

I have said it many, many times and posted instructions. The first rule of owning and operating a convertible with a power top is to never, ever put the top down until you perform some checks. You can lube the daylights out of the pivot points on the top and it usually means little or nothing at all. And one should never, ever push or pull on a Caribbean convertible top. The topstack frame on these cars includes aluminum alloy components that are extremely brittle by now. The least amount of un-balanced pressure one way or the other can weaken, crack or even snap off one of these components. Then you're in for real trouble.

If one lowers a convertible top that has not been lowered in lengthy periods, the very first thing one should do –prior to lowering– is clean the ram rods from the power rams. These rods should be rust-free, slick and shiny. Skipping this step and simply lowering a top that has been sitting un-used for years often means you tear or completely blow the ram seals. And other damage can occur.

Also the fluid in convertible top systems (especially if it was brake fluid) did and does the same thing that brake systems do when left sitting for extended periods. the stuff gets weak, evaporates, dries up, even crystalizes. Check it first. Any evidence of crystalizing? Flush the system... clean and check the pump motor... clean and check the rams.

THEN operate the top.

Here are pages from the original June, 1995 Classic Auto Restorer magazine article I wrote. Please note that these are copyright © 1995 Leon Dixon:

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