MM does sell them. You just have to search by part number.

It's the same washer as 54pac has here:https://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/newbb/viewtopic.php?topic_id=28261&post_id=272156#forumpost272156

https://www.fittings.space/zcw15-10-14

You can also find them on Amazon.

I have been unable to find copper crush washers for the V8 oil drain plug. I have checked all the local hardware and auto part stores with no success. Also check Max Merritt with no luck. Does anyone have a source for these?

Sincere thanks.

Did this appear rather suddenly, or has it slowly become an issue? If your engine was being starved of fuel I would expect a general loss of power, and maybe even dying, but not necessarily the symptoms you're describing. Here's another potential issue to consider. If you're coil is bad, as it warms up it will can cause all kinds of ignition issues, and because they are random in nature they appear to be fuel issues.

I just went trough this a couple of weeks ago after going for a drive to see some friends. The car was developing a miss which was even notable while driving, something completely new. The car sometimes has a bit of a miss when warming up, but once warm it's pretty smooth............like a Packard should be!

When we got home I popped the hood and started poking around to see what I could find. As I was checking to make sure I didn't have any loose plug wires going into the distributor I noticed that a couple of them were slimy.....what's this??? It's like they had oil on them, which they did! My NAPA coil, which was only a year old, has leaked out it's oil, which it uses for cooling. The coil was overheating and causing the engine to misfire, stumble and just run terrible. Replaced the coil with a Flame Thrower and my car has never started and run so well!

There are a few videos on YouTube showing how to test your coil.

That is awesome! I love everything about that. So glad you can share that with him!

I've had the best luck on my thermostat housing using the following procedure:

1. Cork gasket (either get from one of the vendors or cut your own, cork gasket material is available at most autoparts stores by the roll).
2. Attach gasket to thermostat housing using a thin coat of permatex no. 2/indian head shellac/RTV - your choice, I prefer the indian head shellace.
3. Put a thin layer of grease on the gasket on the side the faces the head - this allows you to remove and re-install without having to replace the gasket every time. I use the same procedure on my oil pan, and I've had that off a few times with no damage to the gasket.

Good luck!

The float level may be too low. When the engine is cold, the automatic choke should be engaged. That could mask a low float level condition. If that's the case, and as the engine warms up and the choke opens, it could get too lean, especially under load. If it only backfires and lurches at the moment you open the throttle, it could be a problem with the accelerator pump. I would also try removing the fuel filter and see if that helps. A number of fuel delivery issues can get worse as the engine warms up. Add on fuel filters can cause problems.
(The adjustment screws primarily affect engine idle, and if the engine runs OK at at idle, they are probably OK)
Under some conditions, carburetors can form condensation or even frost internally, and that can disrupt engine operation. That problem usually occurs in cool damp weather, and it usually disappears after the engine is fully warmed up.
An inoperative manifold heat valve can contribute to carburetor "icing".

Greetings to everyone, I am asking for help from more experienced colleagues. I have a 1953 Packard Clipper, 288 cu.i. engine, two-barrel Carter WGD carburetor.
After driving 2-3 miles, probably after warming up, the engine starts "coughing" and "backfiring." It's as if it's not getting enough fuel. The engine loses power. After starting, when the engine is still cold, everything works normally. The pump provides enough fuel, see the picture of the fuel bowl. (When I disconnected the fuel supply hose to the carburetor and cranked the engine, fuel flowed normally from the pump hose). I think the problem is in the carburetor. I tried to adjust it according to the manual, but something is probably wrong. The mixture richness screws are opened 2.5 turns. Can anyone advise me?
Thank you.
Stajgr

That bushing centers and supports the convertor relative to the rest of the transmission and is the flow path for fluid into the convertor.
As such it is pretty important. The nominal clearance between it and the convertor stub shaft should be .003". You will need to come up with some sort of arbor or maybe just a real big socket to push it out; it takes a lot of force and lets go with a loud grunt.

There are two issues with the sticking in Park problem. The root cause is that the little roller that pushes down the parking pawl travels too far and goes over center. That means that as you try and shift out of park the roller has to try and push the pawl yet deeper into the gear while the two are under load. That won't go.

There is a pin that holds the pawl spring AND serves as a stop for the roller. At this late date, it is often bent. The solution is make a new stop pin long enough to make sure that the roller can only push the pawl to its deepest travel and no further. That takes a bit of fiddling, but is not hard with the trans out.

The second issue has to do with the shift linkage geometry which in its natural state gives very unfavorable leverage in the Park position. There is a service counselor article about that which someone less easily frustrated by managing files can post here.

The thermostat is inserted into the housing spring side down. There should be a metal sleeve to hold the 'stat up in the housing against the internal shoulder. If that was missing from whatever was on the car before, you will need to buy of make one.

You need to remove a similar 4 bolts at the front of the driveshaft where it attaches to the flange of the transmission. The slip joint is contained within the length of the driveshaft and does not come apart without an extra procedure.